Brimstonepdx

I am thinking I would like to add some more live plants to my tank and with my mild algae problem I have a feeling that my C02 is on the low side. What would be a good low hassle beginner C02 system for a 55g that is under $100?

rt12

You should get one. Adding more fish would also work but with those fish I don't think it would be the best idea. Go to your LFS they usallly have at least one. If theres one for a smaller tankbuy two that equal to 45- 55 gallons. You don't want to put too much co2 in your tank since it can rob oxygen from your fish. you might want to remove your normal air stone from your tank because your plants will provide enough oxygen to your fish if they can photosynthesize.

cg49me

Check this puppy out.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...35&pcatid=9935

Uses the same CO2 tanks as a paintball gun if I'm not mistaken. A 20oz only costs $30, and about $12 to fill each time. Not sure how long one would last on this setup.

Brimstonepdx

Thank you for your suggestions. I'll take out my airstones after this heatwave is over and see how that works out until I can afford a C02 system next month.

If a 20oz lasts a month and is only around 12 bucks to refill that's not bad at all, though getting it refilled once a month may be a bit of a hassle. Would it work if I got a larger tank so I could refill maybe bi-monthly? It doesn't go bad over time does it? I still have a lot of research to do into adding CO2 to tanks lol.

pepetj

I believe this is a cheap yet useful beginner's CO2 system. Check it out:
http://www.americanaquariumproducts....Generator.html

Seems easy, hope it helps.

Personally I prefer DIY CO2 generator with DIY reactor running 24/7 with aeration working only at night. I've been using DIY CO2 in two heavily planted tanks, a 40gal with 10gal Wet/Dry sump (50gal total) and a 29gal bowfront tall tank since Summer 2008 without any problems.

I do sterilize all bottles with every change of sugar-yeast-baking soda. I use an airpump to feed micro-bubble wands on a timer to add O2 at night time only (it kicks in one hour before lights go out and goes off 30 minutes after lights go in).

I do keep an eye on KH (that it doesn't fall bellow 2dKH), pH, and dissolved levels of oxygen though. I diminished water surface agitation in both tanks, and still had to add peat filtration (carefully moving up the amount of peat fiber used) to achieve pH of 6.8 and 2.5-3.0 DKH.

Adequate/optimal levels of dissolved CO2 should drop pH by a full point (e.g. in my case from 7.8 to 6.8). This is difficult to do with DIY CO2 only. Once I go pressurized (hopefully soon) I might not need peat fiber at all.

Lighting usually requires upgrading. Retrofitting standard lamps assemblies is easy to do if you have basic technical skills.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo

peacemaker92

I'm currently using a Nutrafin C02 system. I'm not sure if they sell Nutrafin brand items in the states...

Good luck with your tank btw!

pepetj

I have a Nutrafin ladder. I'm not sure if it really works well or not I ended replacing it with a small reactor. The Nutrafin kit is likely a good one for experimenting around with small planted tanks.


Pepetj
Santo Domingo

Brimstonepdx

Oh wow I totally forgot about this thread after the site went down. Thanks Pepe I think the Jungle Fizz set is defiantly more my speed for starting off.

papic61

I have a 55gal planted fresh water tank (with fish). I created my co2 using a 2ltr coke bottle and a small defuser from a $19 kit. 2 cups sugar, 1tsp active yeast and 1/2 tsp of baking soda. It produces a high output of tiny bubbles. Many times way too many and too fast to even count. Plants are in heaven, but I'm concerned about the fish. Btw, my ph level is high and yes I have 3 drift wood peaces in the tank. I welcome any advise both pro and con to this setup.

pepetj

For a 40 gal with a 10gal wet/dry sump I use three 2L bottles as generators. If you want to reduce the CO2 injection, tapper down the yeast from 1tsp to 1/2tsp. There's no need to use more than 1/4 tsp of baking soda since the purpose of it is to increase pH in the generator.

That said, it is hard to -but possible- to crash pH with DIY CO2. However, it rarely is as effective (in terms of dissolved levels of CO2: the observables tiny bubbles are not dissolved but in the process of being dissolved as they move through the water column).

Measuring your GH and KH is the safest method I know of for preventing pH crash. Plants use up trace minerals that make up both types of hardness. Keepin GH close to 5 and KH close to 3 seems prudent.

To minimize error of measurement I use 10ml of water as sample and count each drop as 0.5 dKH. Since I keep a somewhat heavy maintenance routine I can afford to reach 1.5 to 2.0 dKH; keeping planted tanks is more effort demanding than keeping fish only but definitely far rewarding.

Pepetj
Santo Domingo