whiskers

I read a bunch online and decided that at least 2/5 of my fish now have tail/fin rot and not ICH. On monday I added the recommended amt of aquarium salt and started a course of Maracyn II after doing a 25% water change and gravel cleaning. Yesterday (day 2 of maracyn) I checked my water and had 0-ammonia, 0.3-nitrite, and 0-5 nitrate. I was worried that the nitrite was rising so I bought and added API Stress Zyme hoping the beneficial bacteria would help. I just checked water today (day 3) and have 0.25-1.25 (the color doesn't match either exactly)-ammonia, 0.3-nitrite, and 0-5 nitrate, also checked pH and found to be 9.0 (the only baseline pH I have 8 about 2 wks ago).

I realize that I made a mistake by treating my whole tank instead of having a hospital tank. My thought was that at least 2-3 of the 5 had obvious signs so I wanted them all treated not realizing at the time that the purpose of the hospital tank is so the antibiotic doesn't kill my bio. filter. Also, I don't have a second filter, heater, etc for the back up tank.

Here is my question.
I know that ammonia and nitrite is rising and I should do another water change but the instructions for the Maracyn II say not to do a water change until after day 5 (it also says that it should harm the established bacteria in my tank). Do I do the water change anyway or wait it out until after the Maracyn? Also, I'm beginning to wonder now if my tank had ever completely finished cycling. Luckily the fish seem to all be doing well. The signs of tail rot don't appear to be worsening and everyone is active and eating. How long does it take for their tails to heal?

Thanks again for advise.

iloveengl

Hey there, Whiskers. I'm sorry about your tank troubles.
A few quick questions:
What testing kit are you using? Do you have any pics of the fish in question? Also who all is in the tank? It sounds like you're in the midst of the nitrogen cycle, which can be very hard on fish and is probably what's making them ill.

IMO, with ammonia that high (even .25 is deadly), I'd say water changes is much more important. My reasoning is fin rot is usually a symptom of poor water conditions (and/or injury) and if it's not too bad, you can stop the rot in its tracks and let it heal on its own if you keep the water pristine. Since the ammonia is so high, that water needs frequent water changes anyway. You might also want to use Prime or AmmoLock Plus to neutralize the ammonia in between water changes. Then you can add some garlic juice to naturally boost their immune systems and help them heal.

If you decide to keep the maracyn in, you're going to need to add an ammonia neutralizer or you're most likely going to lose some fish. I believe you need to remove activated carbon from your filter before adding the meds.

Granted, I'm not big on medicating, so others may have different opinions of further input. Best wishes to your fishes!

aquarist48

http://www.fishlore.com/aquariummaga...ish-finrot.htm

Hello Whiskers. Sorry to hear that your fish are ill. The above link may be helpful. Too, if you would be so kind as to fill out the aquarium information in your profile, it will help others to help you more. Click on "My Settings" at the top in the blue bar. Then in the drop down bar click on "Edit Aquarium Information".

I'm not big on medicating a tank either unless it's absolutely necessary. My choice of treatment for fin rot would be Melafix as it's an all natural product. However, you have to take into consideration what type of fish you have before treatment. Melaxfix should not be used with Bettas, Gouramis. Many medications out there can destroy your cycle. Seems you are now going through a cycle or a mini cycle as well.
All Betta Owners Read!!!!! Melafix Alert!!!!!! Read!!!! Read!!!! Danger!!!!


I would avoid using salt for treatment. Seems this is old school and not recommended on this site.

I would suggest daily 30 to 50% water changes. If your tank isn't cycled then the medications aren't going to help very much as your fish will suffer from ammonia poisoning. Any amount of ammonia in your tank can be very harmful to your fish. Add some Prime or Amquel + to detox the ammonia for 24 hours until it's time for the next water change. Keep up with the water changes until you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and under 20 nitrates.
The test kit most recommended is the API (liquid) Master Test Kit. It will test for all of the above and pH levels as well. The pristine water will really help the fishes poor health.

Best of luck and keep us posted. We'll help you all that we can. Hang in there. It will get better
Ken

janiskfp

I've seen lots of recommendations for adding salt, but not for bacteria, for Ich, plus raising the temp above 86.

With all that ammonia, a little Prime will get your pH down by freeing up Hydrogen atoms, and make the Ammonia into Ammonium, and not toxic (not in those amounts).

whiskers

Thank you everyone for your help. I should've included the link to my initial post regarding tank issues. Are my new fish sick?? (pics included)

I only added aquarium salt because the LFS, other aquarium forums and Maracyn II pamphlet recommended it too help reduce stress of disease. I was desperate to keep these fish alive! I won't use anymore unless its a last resort. I've done a 40% water change for the past 3 days. Right before todays water change my levels were 0 ammonia 1.8 nitrite and 5-10 nitrate. I didn't think you were supposed to get nitrite and nitrate together while cycling but at least I dont have ammonia anymore (I never added Prime or Amquel). I'm assuming the Stress Zyme I added on monday has helped my nitrogen cycle issues. So far, all the fish appear to be alive and well. Can't wait for my biggest concern to be tank decor!!

Jaysee

Water changes are always a good idea. If diseases are caught in time, water changes alone will heal them. Most of the tme, disease is a direct result of poor water quality, and fish don't get better living in the same conditions that got them sick. Often times, improving the water quality is enough to let the fish's own immune system take control.