Je55*e

My two Hatchetfish (one more than the other) are developing black fins at the tops of their back fins. I have had them for over a year and a half, and sometimes the black appears, but when I think about treating it, it goes away again or becomes very small.
Now, it is larger again. Is it fin rot? Anything familiar? What should I do?

Mike19

have you tested your water parameters? usually fin rot is caused by poor water.

the link below should provide you with the answers you need

http://www.fishlore.com/aquariummaga...ish-finrot.htm

Angela_96

Water parameters is a biggie, ammonia, nitrites being up will cause fin rot. Melafix is great treatment along with cleaning up your water parameters.

soldieroffortune1974

Melafix is an antiseptic,not a treatment,Adequate treatment is necessary or Melafix wont do any good.

Generally changing the water,with clean, fresh water daily can reverse the effects of fin rot. Maracyn+ and Kenamyacin will help greatly to clear it up.

Melafix can be used AFTER treatment to prevent re-infection and help fin re-growth.

See here: Medications-ingredients-disease treated

Melafix by API - Rapidly repairs open wounds, damaged fins, red ulcers, and cloudy eyes. INGRED: 1% cajeput oil 1% emulsifier (Crovol PK-70 nonionic emulsifier) 0.2% defoamer (FG-10 by Dow Corning) 97.8% deionized water"
Note: cajeput oil is another name for oil from the tree Melaleuca

cerianthus

Absolutely!!
But I do not know if it is fin rot. It could be sign of courtship coloration which is temporary (sign of happiness) or it could be displaying distress sign which can go away as water conditions are better (via H2O changes).
It is known fact that Hatchets are very sensitive to chlorine. I've seen them drop in numbers when performed improper water changes. Check to see if they display such signs after water changes (especially big water changes). Trials and observations is critical in narrowing down the possibilities of cause of problems which ultimately will produce more sound judgements.

Early DIAGNOSIS and TREATMENT are important but it is more important to make correct DIAGNOSIS and PROPER TREATMENT, IMHO.

Je55*e

I do 25-50% water changes every week without fail, and test my water to make sure it is good. Everything is great, water condition-wise.
I don't know if my Hatchets are male or female, so perhaps it is a courtship thing? Interesting. ^_^ I'll also keep in mind what cerianthus said about chlorine (though my test strips say I have 0 chlorine).
Thanks, everyone!

cerianthus

I only worry when you do partial water change. 50% may be too much of change at once, even if you are using dechlorinator. smaller and more frequent partial water changes sounds better than massive changes at once.

Je55*e

^This is true. My gravel vac is too large, so it often ends up sucking too much water along with the debris I'm aiming for. I am about to set up a 20 gallon for everyone (and add some new friends for them gradually), which will have sand as a substrate. This will be easier for me in general when it comes to water changes (being a larger space and all).

Shawnie

in your above thread you said "test strips"...they make me nervous as ive NEVER had an accurate reading from them when I used them before joining here (I know this now that I have the knowledge about their inaccuracy) they give false negatives more often than not..and I agree its usually the water parimeters...so maybe you are getting a false negative on ammonia and nitrites?

cerianthus

Actually sand might be more difficult to vacuum since will be sucked out as siphoning. you can squeeze the hose to slow down the flow while vaccuuming. This way you can control the flow of water as needed.

Je55*e

I've heard from people who have sand that it's actually very easy to vacuum over. The debris usually settles over it, as opposed to getting inside it (as with gravel). My boss, who has had fish her whole life, prefers sand and has told me it's far easier to vacuum than gravel. Also, the fish I'm choosing would prefer a sand substrate (cory cats and loaches).

Je55*e

Shawnie: what would you suggest I use for testing the water? Brand and all. :P

cerianthus

If decided, go with thin layer rather than deep sand bed in order to avoid anaerobic conditions that might develop on the bottom of the sand bed since not really vacuuming when hover the sand. Still will loose some sand as draining.

Je55*e

^Yup, that's the plan. I will lose some sand, but every so often I'll add some more (I've been given advice on how to do this safely).