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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Helper
| African Cichlids
hi,
I am creating a Neolamprologus multifasciatus tank in my 20gallon long. One thing that concerns me is getting the correct pH and hardness.
My tap water sits at a ph of about 7.6.
I dont have a test kit for hardness
What are some safe methods of raising ph. I have read that store bought chemicals like ph up and ph down are bad. I also seen the home remedie with epson salt ect.
Since my ph level is naturally 7.6 would it be better just to use it with no buffer so my water changes would always be stable?
I know that if I could use store bought chemicals it would be affordable for the twenty gallon, but if I decide to do a 55gallon with them want that get pricey?
Thanks
Aaron | 
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Helper
| Thanks shawnie.
You think that the shells will have enough effect on the ph? My substrate will be sand, so do you think its necesary to add a bag of crushed coral to my filter? | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Keeper
| if you want to raise your ph crushed coral will do it for sure | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Master
| Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron  Thanks shawnie.
You think that the shells will have enough effect on the ph? My substrate will be sand, so do you think its necesary to add a bag of crushed coral to my filter? | I think with the high tap ph , the shells will do it....they require enough shells for each to call their own and a few more wont hurt....you would want to let it settle a couple months without the crushed coral to see where it stands...good luck! | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Helper
| Thanks guys.
I will offer a great deal of shells. I am planning on getting a pair and raising a colony since these little guys run $15 a fish. Once I get around twenty fish I will hopfully have a 125gallon by then and I plan to do a tanganyika community. I go to get these guys sunday so I am rushing to get eveything set up.
Hey shawnie you might be able to help me out on this. I have two cycled tanks already ,but I need to cycle this twenty gallon quickly. Want taking the filter off the cycled ten gallon instantly cycle my twenty gallon?
The ten gallon only houses three cherry shrimp so I thought they would be ok with the recently bought filter until the bacteria colonize the media. what ya think bud? | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Master
| buddette  lol...yes it should be an instant cycle with fish added at the same time as the filter .....I cant speak for the shrimp as ive never kept them but im sure other members who have, can help there  | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Mentor
| Like you already said Aaron I would stay away from those ph up/down products. They work but then you have the task of maintaining this "new" ph you have created.
Just becareful using the filter from the 10gal. The reason being 3 cherry shrimp have a very small bio load. When you introduce the fish, even if it is only 2, the bio load will be much greater.
Brian | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Master
| Quote:
Originally Posted by btate617
Just becareful using the filter from the 10gal. The reason being 3 cherry shrimp have a very small bio load. When you introduce the fish, even if it is only 2, the bio load will be much greater.
Brian
| GREAT point brian!!!!  I didnt realize the shrimp were the only ones in the tank...there deffinately wont be enough seeded bacteria if it is only the shrimp in there sorry | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Helper
| Brian,
Good hearing from you again! I am in the works of getting a 125 for my project. oops off topic.
hows this sound. Move the cycled filter to the twenty gallon. Throw in a couple of platies and a molly that I have had since day one. That will give the filter roughly five days before the multies will be introduced and then I can just put the platies back into the 55. Should that prep the filter alright? | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Mentor
| Get a small bucket of tank water.
Take the other seeded filter media, the other one you have that isn't on the shrimp tank.
Put it in the bucket of tank water and give it a few squeezes.
Take that media and put it back where it came from.
Take your media from the 10gal shrimp tank, put in the same bucket and squeeze it a few times.
Now replace that media back in the filter from the shrimp tank.
That should help jump start it, you may need to do a small w/c every couple of days until the media catches up to the new bio load, but you should be good.
Brian | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Helper
| Do you think I will be pushing it?
I know these guys have to have clean water and I would be pretty mad If I killed $30 worth of fish. | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Master
| I think you would be pushing it by having an unstable tank ...they are sensitive to water parimeters and the most picky of cichlids with such..maybe because they are so little who knows.....I would seed the new filter for 2-3 weeks on an established stocked tank or fully cycle it other ways before adding the shellies ..but thats me ... | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Helper
| I hope im not agravating you guys, its just with college and plans this week will be the only time i can travel up there and pick them up.
Its about time to change the media in the 55gallon. what if I just crammed that media into the filter for the twenty gallon? Thanks for your patience. | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Master
| that would be great if you have a good stocked tank..but then you take a huge chance of throwing the 55 gal into a mini cycle....good luck no matter what you choose and I hope things work well! | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Master
| Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron Thanks shawnie.
You think that the shells will have enough effect on the ph? My substrate will be sand, so do you think its necesary to add a bag of crushed coral to my filter? | Why not just go with aragonite sand for your substrate? That would help buffer your water. You could put some Texas holey rock in there as well. When I kept my ocellatus, I used CaribSea's African cichlid sand (kind of expensive, but it buffers the water and is a cool mix of white and black) with some holey rock and shells. Plain aragonite is a cheaper option though.  | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Mentor
| Going with what Harpua said.... doesn't limstone also do the same?
If I am remembering correctly won't it raise it slowly then be stable?
Brian | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Mentor
| [quote=aaron;653190]Brian,
Good hearing from you again! I am in the works of getting a 125 for my project. oops off topic.
QUOTE]
Right on! Can't wait to see what you go with.
Brian | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Helper
| I have read conflicting reviews on useing different substrates for ph purposes.
Want a water change lower the ph a small amount? | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Fish Master
| Quote:
Originally Posted by btate617 Going with what Harpua said.... doesn't limstone also do the same?
If I am remembering correctly won't it raise it slowly then be stable?
Brian | Yes; actually Texas holey rock is also known as honeycomb limestone. | |
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August 19th, 2009
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| | Moderator
| Hello aaron. Personally, I would be happy with the 7.6 that comes out of your tap once the chlorine is removed. As Shawnie mentioned, the fish you are about to get should be fine with 7.6. Keep your eye on your levels. The 7.6 can be maintained through water changes. Should that not be enough then I would consider adding crushed coral.
Yes, if your pH level is raised higher in tank than the water from your tap, then the new water could lower the pH levels in your tank. Here is a link you may find helpful concerning maintaining pH levels: Properly Maintaining the pH in a Freshwater Aquarium - Rate My Fish Tank
Best of luck whatever you decide. Keep us posted!
Ken | |
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