crzyb1080

Hey all,

So it's been a week since I started my fishless cycle. I am doing the "add and wait" method. Using an API master test kit, I have tested my ammonia levels every day since the June 28th. Now I realize its called that method for a reason (waiting) but my tests have not changed at all in the past couple days. How long does it take to start seeing nitrites? I guess I am second guessing myself and my tests. (not sure if I'm reading the test right) If I'm reading it right, my ammonia levels are around 1.5/2 PPM. Nitrites 0.

my temp is currently at 87.5.

Should I be doing water changes at all?

Lucy

You're doing fine. It could take a few weeks for the bacteria to develop that process the ammonia in nitrites.
Increasing aeration will help.
Hang in there and have patience!

crzyb1080

GAH I keep on telling myself this is worth it. Its just that I dropped some cash on this hobby and when in college... that cash could have easily gone towards my books or beer. haha

my drunk pirate "blackbeard" aerates a little, and until my 8" bubble wand ships (on backorder) i have a cheap 4" bubble rock thingy.

I also can definitely tell I'm losing water via evaporation and what not. The water level has dropped around 1/2 an inch since I've started.

Lucy

Fish Less cycling is definely worth it. Just read the forum for a while, you'll see how the cycle can weaken fish leaving them open to disease and death.
See, in the long run, you're actually saving money for books and beer.

Brimstonepdx

Are you adding fish food or did you toss in a shrimp? If your doing the fish food thing you may find it goes a little faster tossing in a raw shrimp or two.

crzyb1080

I used 5 ml of 10% ammonium hydroxide. I figured that was enough that I didn't need to add any fish food.

Brimstonepdx

My bad, when you said add and wait I thought you meant feeding it. I have never cycled with ammonium before but I believe you have to keep adding it to keep your ammonia lvls around 3 to 5ppm until you get a nitrite reading. Also what is your pH reading? The lower the Ph the longer it will take.

Shawnie

You really need pure ammonia (the kind that when you shake it in the bottle, theres very little bubbles) or you could be longer than a few weeks....

you are correct!

crzyb1080

when I shake the bottle there are very little bubbles. Using only 5 ml, it raised my 29 gallon tanks ammonia level to what I thought was 5 ppm. I read somewhere on FL that someone went to Ace hardware and bought their ammonia. I did the same and found the exact same thing they bought.

I just tested my pH and its right at 7.6

Any recommendations on what I should do? switch to fish food method?

EDIT: If it matters the tank water is starting to become white-ish. Not super bad, but I can tell its not as clean as it could be.

MaddieLynn

Fish food method is VERY MESSY. The pure ammonia method is the best "add and wait" method.

Brimstonepdx

In your first post you mentioned that the Ammonia lvl was at 1.5 to 2ppm. I think with the method you have chosen you just need to add more of your ammonia and raise it back to 3 to 5ppm until you see nitrites form. I wouldn't switch to the fish food method if you have the 100% ammonia that everyone recommends from here.

A Ph of 7.6 isnt bad at all. As far as the white-ish water... I have no idea on that.

aquarist48

Glad to hear that you're doing a fishless cycle! As for the white cloud it's probably a bacterial bloom. It's common in new tanks. It will eventually go away on it's own.

crzyb1080

So after testing all my parameters nothing has changed still. So a couple of new questions:

1) Is there a difference between stress coat and stress coat marine? Can marine be used to dechlorinate tap water in a fresh water tank? After looking at all my equipment I realized I bought Marine instead of regular *doh*

2) Thinking back when I got this tank (got it for free) I used vinegar to clean the inside but I remember using a soft scrubber thingy that I got from my kitchen. Considering this is a college house, I can only image what it was used for. Could this effect my parameters?

3) Also looking back to when I finally started my tank I had forgotten that I added Zyme on the Friday, and then on Monday I added my ammonia. That was 2 weeks ago. Could this be a reason why my ammonia hasn't dropped?

4) When using the API freshwater master test kit, do you place the test tubes DIRECTLY against the color chart? There is a big difference in color when you place it directly against or .5-1" away.

5) My water level has dropped quite a bit. Should I or can I add more water ?

At this point I am willing to do anything to get some results because as of now... I am almost considering this a sunk cost. (get it... sunk... pun intended haha)

Shawnie

1. some say there isnt a difference but IMO , they wouldnt sell 2 different versions if they were the same....so I would exchange it for the FW version

2. by now, the ammonia would have killed anything on the sponge and you are fine

3. the zyme is probably all gone by now and it would effect it in the beginning, but now its just a patience thing as 2 weeks is plenty of tiem for the ammonia to have eaten up the zyme

4. i place mine against it

5. yes you can add more water just make sure you dechlorinate it so you dont kill the bacteria you have started ....

it not a sunk cost and you really need to find patience in a bottle hahaha..thats what this hobby requires and you are on the right track....

what are your readings as of today? ammonia? nitrites? nitrates?

AlyeskaGirl

Im with Shawnie, patience is the key here. It's well worth the wait, ok! It'll get there.

crzyb1080

If it were up to me, I would totally be fine with waiting forever. Being I live in a college house, I have alot of pressure from my roommates to get it ready for fish sooner. I try telling them about the nitrogen cycle and they just blow me off and call me a loser. I usually reply (since they will buy their own fish) "Fine, go ahead and buy one, but i'll make sure yours dies first." haha

My parameters as of today:
ammonia (not sure if I were to place the tubes next to the chart so I would do both. ) is 4ppm (with shawnie's advice) and hasn't dropped for quite a while.
nitrite - 0 ppm
nitrate - 0 ppm
pH - 7.6
Temp - 85.5

Earlier in this thread I mentioned that I used 10% ammonium hydroxide. I've gone to 3 different places and this is the only one without surfactants and all that other stuff. When I shake it, there are few bubbles which go away almost instantly. Do I need to go find 100%? Where can I find that? Should I check Menards, Home Depot?

So I want to add more water. Is it safe to add the water then the dechlorinator? I have a python kit and I would have no way other then that to add the chemicals.

Shawnie

tell your friends to get their own tank hahaha..you are doing right by your fish and you will be so happy in the long run when you dont have to worry about this part....you are doing fine then ...keep the ammonia at 4ppm until you have nitrites...keep using the ammonia you have for now as you said it has very few bubbles and its pure...you dont need the python to just add a bit of evaporated water..you can use a bucket..and even when you do use the python, (LUCKY DOG!! it wont fit my sinks so im all bucket) you add the dechlorinator straight to the tank while adding with the python

eiginh

Yeah tell them to get their own tanks! or you can be really nice and buy them one

Yes it's safe to add the water then the water conditioner. That's what I do with my 10g.

Shawnie, is your sink too small or the python doesn't fit into your faucet? If it doesn't fit into your faucet, one of the members here told me to buy a water to hose adapter from home depot and that fixed the problem.