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Old June 28th, 2009  
Fish Bum
 
signs of ICK

Hi all,
I'm 5 wks into my new tank and the nitrogen cycle is complete. NH3/NH4 readings are 0,NO2 is 0 and NO3 is 10 pH IS 7.4 Water temp is 78. I did a 30% water change today and cleaned the inside of the tank.1 hr later I notice all my blk neon tetras have white spots all over them.Info on this site leads me to believe its ICK! What is it and what should I do next?? (BTW all W/C were done using a gravel vacuum.) No new fish have been added.

5 cherry barbs
5 blk neons
4 cories
3 balloon mollies
2 swordtails(m/f)
1 redwag platy

I also bought frozen brine shrimp cubes yesterday being the last time I fed it to them.
I attached a pic
Attached Images
File Type: jpg neons ick.jpg (368.9 KB, 35 views)
gsg623 is offline  
Old June 28th, 2009  
Moderator
 
Hello. Sorry to hear you're experiencing ICH. Raise the temperature in your tank to 85 degrees and leave it there for 2 weeks. Ich cannot survive in temperatures over 82 degrees. Do several gravel vacuums to remove Ich spores that have fallen off the fish and into the gravel. It's recommended that you also add additional air supply due to the higher temperatures. Higher temperatures decrease oxygen levels. Best of luck.
Since one fish is infected the entire tank is infected so there is no need for quarantine. Treat the entire tank.
aquarist48 is offline  
Old June 28th, 2009  
Fish Mentor
 
Ick is likely to kill some of your fish. The ones that survive will likely become somewhat resistant to it.

Since your tank is newly cycled I suggest you use the high temp method that Aquarist48 suggest. It is "tried and true".

The "salt-grain-like" cysts that are visible in the fish are untreatable. Ick is a protozoan parasite, that has a complex life cycle with three stages. When the cysts disappear it doesn't mean the problem is over, it means that it entered the first stage, where this organism drops down and attaches to whatever surface it finds (plants, driftwood, substrate); from there it will turn into a free-swimming phase, looking for a host to attach to.

If you feel up to the task, besides increasing water temp and levels of dissolved oxygen, consider the following: Thorough cleaning of aquarium walls, plants, decor followed by huge substrate vacuum, media filter gently rinsed in treated tap water, and as huge as you can every-other-day water changes (safer if you can mimic the tank's water parameters the best you can as far as temperature and pH).

I wouldn't use aquarium salt in new tank since beneficial bacterias that sustain the nitrogen cycle differs if salt is present or not in the water column, although I don't know at what concentration level (-ppt?) this is critical. I could be wrong here.


Pepe
Santo Domingo
pepetj is offline  
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