Your bioload is likely negligible for the volume of water you have. If you keep a healthy maintenance routine in your
canister filter, you should expect to see some, but still low, readings on nitrates once your bioload increases.
Just for comparison purposes consider the following (my experience):
In a 145gal tank, with likely 120gals of water, natural river sand substrate and three AquaClear 110 as filtration, I keep two young adults Tiger Oscars (12-1/2" long each), two young adults Heros Severum (8" each), four young adult Convict Cichlids (3 to 4" each), and their fry (around 20 juveniles 1/2-1" each), as well as five young adults Kenyi (at 4-5" each) and some fry (around 10 juveniles 1/2" each).
Sidenote: juveniles in that tank are there because I have poor success netting them out!
I kept this tank moderately planted since I set it up in July 2008, I upgraded lighting (a work in progress really, I did it slowly in order of not disturbing my fishes) and in December 2008 I planted heavily with surface-floating plants (water orchids, water lettuce and earmoss) covering 2/3 of the tank surface, as well as potted submersible plants (anacharis, hornwort, hygrophila, vallisneria) and some that eventually emerse (parrot feather).
Before I went heavily planted, my nitrates, in one week reached 20ppm or even close to 25ppm if I overfed, in two weeks it would go close to 40ppm. As I added more plants (took me some time and lots of trial and error since Oscars live there) it stayed around 10ppm a week after
water change, and reached 25ppm in two weeks time.
Now I am having negligible readings in nitrates (5ppm or less). The nitrite/nitrate test strips that I use for screening show 0 on both (Tetra 5-in-1 and Jungle). I might do water changes every other week if I keep obtaining readings like these. I use Marine Enterprises Inc Nitrate test and the nitrate test from API
FW Master
test kit.
Also I use fertilizers that contain no nitrates or phosphates.
Pepe
Santo Domingo