sgould

Well, I may have missed it, so forgive me if you have already said...what exactly is your water's pH before you change it?

Gina423

well the guy tested it so I don't know the exact number, but I saw the chart and it was the lowest color on the chart (I am guessing 6.0, but I could be wrong). I also know it was very acidity because of my large amounts of brown algae.

I just tested it again and the color chart says that it is between 7.0 and 7.5 (I am getting a masters test kit, but am currently waiting for it to come-probably by saturday).

So do you think my water will stay in this nice 7.0-7.5 range or will it bounce because I added increaser?

Luniyn

If you are in the 7-7.5 range then you are perfect. I wouldn't add anymore pH anything, but rather test your tap water and through water changes get your tank to be the same. The only reason I mentioned the increaser vs. the neutralizer is to figure out if that was indeed what killed the fish or if there is something else wrong with your main tank. At this point let's get it to be a constant rather then add anything else to it. I would still feel safer with waiting for the master kit (just remember to do the fish food thing) so we can get proper readings and not just test strip readings. But then I am usually over cautious . The only thing I'm worried about is what is your nitrate level. I am pretty sure it was the pH that caused your fish to react so badly, but without testing for the level of nitrate I'm not certain. However, if you want to give it a go, wait till tomorrow and then test your tank with whatever you were using to get those pH readings and see if it's the same. If it is then you could try introducing them back using the method Sgould mentioned.

Gina423

Ok, I got my master kit. My ammonia was 0, ph was between 7.0 and 7.5, nitrites were 0 and nitrates were about 10 (the API master kit said anything under 40 was ideal). I think I might get some zebra danios