Shawnie: I really thought you were kidding us. GH is the "general hardness" (sum of all dissolved minerals in the water, including carbonates; distilled water has GH of zero; soft water up to 5dH... etc)
KH is another related measure, that focuses (supossedly) on "carbonate hardness" which acts as a
buffer to keep pH stable (absence or very low levels make pH likely unstable).
Cub Fan: Yes it makes all sense to me. Those are quite close to my values (tested with Tetra Laborett liquid reagents).
My Readings at day 7 (today) of fishless cycle with Ammonia solution (jump-started with one seeded filter, and seeded substrate last Saturday evening):
pH range is 7.6 to 7.8 (midnite-noon)
Temp range 26 to 28C (midnite-noon)
Ammonia from 3ppm to 0ppm in 12hrs or less (I'm adding halfX drops: 12.5ml of ammonia solution)
Nitrites at spike (off charts)
Nitrates at <10ppm, (but slightly >0)
GH 10dH
KH 5dH
As long as KH remains at or above 3dH, the pH attained from filtering with peat should be stable.
As for how much it will drop: It depends, filtering through peat could drastically drop pH to values around 4.5. As I wrote you, I am researching it myself as we speak.
So far this is what I intend to do: (This is without fish in the tank)
Once the cycle is done, Almost 100%
water change. At this point I intend to place Fluval Peat Fiber inside the HOBs (I have three AquaClear 110). I will add/remove as necessary, looking for KH at 3dH (although some sources consider KH at 2dH safe).
Another method is filtering a lot of treated tap water in a separate bucket, drop the pH to 4.5 and perform partial water replacents until safe values are obtained.
To prevent tanins from staining the water, Activated Charcoal must be present and working (replacing every 2 to 3 weeks?); if you want blackwater biotipe, remove the Activated Charcoal.
Hope this works. Keep us posted!
Pepe
Santo Domingo