prairielilly

This is possibly in the wrong section but I wasn't sure where to put it...I was at the LFS yesterday and was looking at some loose media for canister filters that is said to remove phosphates. I've also noticed on Big Al's website that there's lots of similar products. Since most fish food contains phosphates and I also suspect there's phosphates in my tap water (haven't tested that), I figure I'd have to stop feeding my fish in order to not have phosphates in my tank (obviously not! I'm interested in reducing phosphates in order to help with controlling algae). Can anyone share their experiences with whether or not this media actually works?

pinkfloydpuffer

I tried some once, and it didn't seem to do anything. Of course not all of them are equal though. I got a phosphate test and discovered that I didn't have any phosphate at all, either in tank or in tap. I suggest you get a test kit first before you start putting $ in for phosphate removers.

prairielilly

Who are they made by, is yours a dropper style? I have yet to see one for sale in store or online (Canadian)...admit I need to look more though. I always find the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, kH, pH, chlorine etc but haven't seen one for phosphate. Some of those phosphate-remover products were pretty cheap.

pinkfloydpuffer

Yeah, mine's API. Liquid test. It was kinda hard to find, but I found one eventually.

cerianthus

it should work well but can be expensive depending how high. Also you can look into RO/Di (expensive to buy and run and maintain) or Tap Water Filter by API (aboout $40 for unit and $20 for Replace Cartridge).
Contact water supplier for tap analysis. If water is not too hard, TWF can remove chlorine, chloramine, minerals, metals, etc. without constant replacement of cartridges. This can eliminate the need for any dechlorinator unless desired.
I do not know of any PO4 removing Resins which can be easily regenerated at home for reuse. Anyone with insight wishes to share the info if such is avail?
BTW, NO3 and PO4 are main issues that we can test for which can contribute to algae blooms.
If using fertilizer, run test of fertilizer to see if contains high NO3, PO4. Test tube filled with tap water to see if any in tap. Than do another test using tap +one drop of fertilzer to see if it contains NO3, PO4. If it does, may/should control the amt and frequency of adding fertilzer.

Hope this help.

prairielilly

Isn't it true though that most types of algae feed off phosphates in the water? so I thought if this stuff controls phosphates it will control the algae. I've got a ton of brown algae atm and I know it will eventually go away, just don't want it to be replaced with an epidemic of green algae or green water, and my tanks don't have room for algae-eating fish.

Edit: didn't see your post Cerianthus til after I posted. No live plants so no fertilizers. My water is known to be hard (carbonate aquifer) but I can look into actual levels. Some of the other stuff I don't think would work for a little betta tank, maybe if I had a really big tank, but thanks. Can't find the water test but I have more places to look, might be easier just to try one of the products since they're more readily available, just wondering which ones others have tried and if they had any luck...not looking like it...

cerianthus

Yes it is along w/ N-based substance (NO3, etc). Diatoms seems to go away with higher lighting from my experiences. If diatoms persist, look into Silicate test kit and remover.
I would not do any until actual testing are done which will provide the direction you should take. Thus no need to drop a buck where you dont need to.

lew2000

Diatoms use silicates and silicic acid in water to form their shells or frustule. To keep diatoms from forming you need to remove these sources. If you are looking into removing phosphates - what i use is a phosphate reactor (which i also use for ketapeat. To me a directed water supply provides much more surface area in contact with water flow - versus a pillow or such method. I use phosban or rowaphos (these products remove silcates/silicic acid)- but it runs about 30 month for a 55gal tank. I run it at 50gph - and i have 0ppm phosphate. I change out the media every 4 weeks. When i see diatoms forming, that also tells me the silicate removing removing properties are exhausted and it is time to change the media.

cerianthus

Good info lew but i now realize PL may be talikng about 3 G or 20G F/W.
if this is an issue with 3 gallon or 20G, how about reseve (Rubbermaid container) with small filter filled with NO3 remover and PO4 remover. At least new water going in have none provided any in tap. Like I said, contact water supplier for complete analysis on tap which can give you right direction to go.

prairielilly

It is for my 3g, 5g and 20g.

Thanks for all the information, but I was really looking for a simple, easy solution for my small tanks, if such a thing exists - some of the products I was looking at said you treat them just like carbon, as in put a little in a bag and put it in the HOB, remove phosphates, less algae. I wondered if such things were effective.

If it's a problem with silicious acid, well my gravel is quartz so that's not going to change.

I can't find a phosphate test kit, so I'm not exactly hopeful for a silica test kit, and I'm pretty certain that while I do believe there are levels in the tap water it is more the tank water that's the issue (substrate contributes silica, fish food contributes phosphate).

I guess I'll just learn to like diatoms...

cerianthus

Now knowing exactly for which tanks, maybe inserting resin to control seems more appropriate rather than test kits which will lead to more measures to take action. When possible and when algae is becoming an issue, just pop in resins as needed. Even with testing and action, diatoms will still be present to some degree as with other algae. Well, cleaning and performing routine maintenance is another fun aspects of fish keeping, imo.
But learning new and knowing more will help anyone when need to make sound judgement down the road.

prairielilly

True No issues there. The problem with the diatoms is they are in all my tanks (the 3g, the 5g and the 20g, as stated) and the more I clean it the more it comes back with a vengeance - when I leave it alone I get less. In my 3g if I vacuum it out of the gravel and wipe down all the surfaces and clean the silk plant leaves it looks sparkling clean - for about a day. Then it's brown and furry again. I don't care if there's SOME diatoms (makes it look more natural IMO) I just don't want my betta living in a brown furry diatom-licious aquarium.

lew2000

prarielilly - cerianthus was right - i completely forgot to look at your aquarium info.

try this link:

http://www.marvelousproducts.com/Che...-elite-5oz.htm

This might be a possibility of putting this into hob, it is small amount and your only looking to remove silicates from the water - no silicates diatoms can't build thier "shells". However, given that you have quartz gravel, then you probably can only control it somewhat and not eradicate them - the little devils - maybe they think it's supposed to be a diatom tank. What about using another substrate instead of quartz?

prairielilly

Yeah! that's the sort of thing I had in mind! thanks!

I don't mind at all really if there's some diatoms, so long as the tank doesn't turn brown the day after I clean it, and I don't get a green water epidemic or something like that. I've considered changing out the substrate but I'd like to avoid that as it's only a 3g tank and I don't want to mini-cycle it; besides there's nothing wrong with the substrate otherwise. In the 20g the cories are keeping the gravel reasonably clean and in the 5g the gravel is tan to begin with so I don't care, it's just the plants in those tanks that get fuzzy, but in the 3g the (formerly) white gravel just looks gross.

I'm going to see if I can find something similar to this in Canada. It can't hurt to try it....

cerianthus

WOW! Upgrade version of GOOD OLD Chemipure! If can achieve as described, may be this is simple solution for any small tank in controlling some algae, even diatoms. Good job, lew.