Salukis97

Hey everybody. I'm new to this forum, but have already learned a lot by reading through a bunch of useful stuff here.

I am seeking opinions of a sump I have just started building.

Here is the design:



It is based one of many designs I have looked at. It is not exactly to scale but it is close I think. I am using a 45 gallon tall tank for the sump. I would rather of used a long tank instead, but the 45 gallon was just sitting in my basement gathering dust. I plan on purchasing a 75 gallon or larger aquarium for my display tank, but am in no hurry. I'm keeping an eye on craigslist and local yardsales for a good deal.

Anyway, my main concern is the height of the first baffle. as you can see, it is 18 inches tall. I am using 1/4 inch lexan acrylic as the baffles, because I can't get the local glass shop to cut the glass for me for a reasonable price. The only baffle in place so far is the first 18" piece. I used A LOT of aquarium silicoln, but I am afraid of the water pressure pushing it out of place since silicoln doesn't really adhere to acrylic.

My main questions are:

1. I have heard that WeldOn 1001 will adhere glass to acrylic. Can anyone confirm this?

2. Do the height of the baffles concern anyone? (especially the first one)

3. Any comments or concerns about the overall design?

Oh yeah, there will be a protein skimmer. Probably a hang-on style remora that will empty into the chamber with the live rock.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm new to saltwater and want to do this right. That's why I am in no hurry.

Thank you

nemo addict

1. weldon i do not know nothing about sorry (from uk prob a product from your ountry)
2. No as my first baffle is 1 inch from the top and causes no problems
3. The first baffle you have as a over i would lift and have as a under an put the live rock in first chamber as you will get the flow through the rocks and no where for anything to build up and cause nitrates ,, 2nd compartment put equipment lowering the 2nd baffle so it goes over this making no need for the 3rd baffle the you have your fuge with next baffles acting as a bubble stop , then last compartment your return pump hope this makes sense if not i will try and draw on your pic but be warned im am rubbish at drawing on pc s lol

nemo addict

ohh and btw welcome to fishlore

Salukis97

Hey, thanks for the response. That makes a lot of sense. It would save room by eliminating the extra baffle.

I already glued the first 18" piece in, though, lol. I guess I could remove it, but I sure did pack the silicoln on.

Salukis97

I posted this in the tank equipment section before I saw this DIY section. Just figured I'd get more views if I posted it here. Sorry Mods for the double post.

Hey everybody. I'm new to this forum, but have already learned a lot by reading through a bunch of useful stuff here.

I am seeking opinions of a sump I have just started building.

Here is the design:




It is based one of many designs I have looked at. It is not exactly to scale but it is close I think. I am using a 45 gallon tall tank for the sump. I would rather of used a long tank instead, but the 45 gallon was just sitting in my basement gathering dust. I plan on purchasing a 75 gallon or larger aquarium for my display tank, but am in no hurry. I'm keeping an eye on craigslist and local yardsales for a good deal.

Anyway, my main concern is the height of the first baffle. as you can see, it is 18 inches tall. I am using 1/4 inch lexan acrylic as the baffles, because I can't get the local glass shop to cut the glass for me for a reasonable price. The only baffle in place so far is the first 18" piece. I used A LOT of aquarium silicoln, but I am afraid of the water pressure pushing it out of place since silicoln doesn't really adhere to acrylic.

My main questions are:

1. I have heard that WeldOn 1001 will adhere glass to acrylic. Can anyone confirm this?

2. Do the height of the baffles concern anyone? (especially the first one)

3. Any comments or concerns about the overall design?

Oh yeah, there will be a protein skimmer. Probably a hang-on style remora that will empty into the chamber with the live rock.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm new to saltwater and want to do this right. That's why I am in no hurry.

P.S. Nemo Addict suggested in the other thread that I raise the first baffle to make the water flow under. The live rock would then be in the first inlet chamber. Then the water would flow over the next baffle directly into the refugium. That would eliminate the need for the third baffle since there will already be a bubble trap after the fuge. Any other suggestions/comments?

Thank you and sorry again for the repost.

nemo addict

I would personally use glass as its cheaper here then plastic (perspex) and the glass shop cuts to the exact size for me so all i have to do is mastic in (fish tank sealant) i dont know about the glue you are using but i would be very careful as most glues and mastic sealant s will leach in to the water killing live stock

Salukis97

Here is a revised plan based on the idea from Nemo Addict:



Seems a little more simplified and efficient to me. Any thoughts?

Lucy

Welcome to FishLore
I merged your two threads.
Best of luck with your sump.

nemo addict

this is better as you can see you have better flow more room and better filtration and no dead spots for nitrates to build up what is the tee on the return going to used for ??

nemo addict

you moved as i posted on it lol so had to start again

Lucy

Salukis97

Sorry for all the confusion. I'm starting off with a bang!

Trust me, I would much rather use glass. The local glass shop here quoted me right at $100 for the glass cut to size, but I got the Lexan Acrylic from Lowes for $40.

I'm using aquarium safe silicoln, so I'm not worried about that aspect of it.

The T in the return line is so I can reduce flow to the main tank if I need to balance things out. I'm also thinking about doing something like this:



This way I would have complete control over the flow to the main tank, and with the split going back into the initial return chamber, I could completely shut off flow to the main tank if I ever needed to and still circulate the sump.

hop2jr

I went to a window installer and ask him for 2 old windows of free. Then bought a glasscutter for 5 bucks took the widows apart carefully( was the toughest part of the job) and just skor with the cutter and snap. Was easy made some mistakes but had more that enuff glass. Thats why I got 2 windows lol.

hop2jr

Looks good. I made mine from a 29gal for my 75gal tank got glass at a window installer for free and cut it myself was easy. U will want ta rise the bioballs above the waterline with at least 1/2 of them out of the water. So the water trickles down them. Also use an overflow with an 800gal/hr rate I went with 300 and wish it was higher.

Salukis97

I've got the sump about half complete. I'm still debating on the best way to get a good bead of silicone down between the baffles in the bubble trap. Anyone have experience with this?
I've seen a couple videos on youtube where they attached a length of tubing to the end of the caulk gun which seemed to work. I tried it with latex tubing, though, and all it did was blow a big bubble in the latex as soon as the silicone left the gun lol. I think I'm going to try vinyl tubing instead.

I've started looking at overflows and pumps now. I'm leaning towards the CPR CS100 for the overflow. It's rated at 800 GPH. Does this seem about right for a 75 Gal display tank and 45 gal sump? I'm only utilizing approx. half to two-thirds of the 45 gl sump volume.

Any ideas or recommendations on a return pump? I know it needs to have a GPH rating similar to the overflow. Other than that, I have no idea which are reliable, quiet, cool running, etc. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.

Godfather6reat

i made my sump out of a 30gal (5 dollar rumage sale) and for the baffolds i used mirrors that i gor from the restore (its like a good will for building supplies) you can strip the coating off with mineral spirits it comes off fairly easy.

try putting a small dap of silicon in a few stratigic places hold it till it drys then put the rest of the bead. unless holding it and cualking isn't the problem

my father uses 2 1800gph in his 300 gal slightlly over kill but not according to him (homemade tank and sump and homemade all glass skimmer)

you have to think about home much pressure you loose to height. the pump may be 800gph at the ground put then pump water up 6 feet and it drops considerably

thadscottmoore

my current build is a HOB for nano with skimmer on one side and mini refugium on other side with pump in middle chamber. Acrylic- 1/4 inch shell and 1/8 inch baffles cost me about 70.00 cut to size at local glass shop. Purchased Weld-On #16 from Ebay store- 5 oz for about 13.00. painted outside of shell with fusion gloss black and I came back with an aquarium safe silicone caulk on all joints to insure no leaks. measures 3.5 inches back x 17 inches tall with tallest baffle at 14 inches x 14 inches wide. 1" overflow enters left chamber where the aquaticlife mini skimmer is- baffle is 10 inches tall- enters a bubble trap and exits over a 9 baffle into the pump chamber- T in pump return line feeds the refugium via a valve to control flow to fuge. refugium overflows back into the pump chamber over a 14 inch baffle wall.

David C

The T-valve to restrict flow from your return pump isn't needed. You can replace it with a ballvalve and just close it some. It wont harm the pump because they're designed to handle the head pressure anyway. I thought it was so you could use the return pump to drain water for water changes, just pump it into a bucket. I've seen people who designed their system for this.

You should find another glass shop, my local shop cut the glass and sanded the edges smooth for $30, and it was a total of 6 panels. I think your shop was highballin you hoping to make a good profit or the guy didnt want to be bothered with it and was trying to discourage you. Just my 2cents.

Dave