do you have a filter in each tank like this? I'm guessing you do. Ok, the problem is still there, as to how to get the water out in a controlled manner.
Instinct says to take a look at the plastic tank option. This has major advantages to a
DIY racking system like you have here. They are cheap to buy, easy to work on and hold a good capacity.
In this project, I would look at the option to buy 6 45L storage boxes which could sit two per shelf. They can be drilled easily to insert plastic tank overflow fittings at water level and work really well. The total capacity of the rack would be double what you have now and the whole lot could be
sump filtered using one of the 5 gallon glass tanks at the bottom. A pond pump could be used to return the filtered water to the tanks through control valves. The result would be a 275L (72 Gallon) system, with a sump filter to keep maintenance to a minimum.
The sump is easy to make, using the same media as your DIY filters use now, gravel and floss. The heater could also live in the sump, reducing the need for heaters in each tank.
Guppies need a strong current to help them toi develop so this would give that current as the water falls into the tank. By having the feed in at the front and the return in the opposit back corner, circulation in each tank would be created too. A pump capable of 500GPH would be needed for the inflow and brass washing machine taps could be used to control the flow into the tank. The return piping would need to be 22mm to handle the gravity return volume of water to the sump, but this is cheap and easy to obtain, as are all the fittings for it. In the UK, this system would cost a total of around 75 pounds sterling to complete. Having a glazier drill holes in old glass would cost nearly as much!
Water changes would be done from the sump, simply by diverting the return flow away from the sump and running fresh water into the sump well as the pump moves the water up to the tanks. use a small bore tubing to vacuum the bottom of each tank and remove the excess foods etc. Levels would be maintained at all time in the tanks, the only area that would need to be watched would be the sump levels. Topping up is also through the sump. (You may need to stand the sump inside the 10G tank just in case of overflow if the pump stops.)
It's basically a small version of the fish house setup that I'm working on!
Here's a detailed schematic of the idea: