Introduction
Hello all, I have comprised a caresheet on Discus fish after a lot of research. The intention of this care sheet is to invite others to share in our love of this peaceful, beautiful species of Cichlid. I want to be able to inform others that the care of these fish is not as mysterious and unattainable as some would think. Providing the correct care, you should be able to enjoy this part of fishkeeping.
Anything new to add would be welcome and I hope that Nicole will answer the call on any breeding information. I have purposely left that information out as it is a secondary part of keeping Discus and would be useful if anyone wants to breed their Discus
[CapeKate]
Credits
The main body of the caresheet was prepared by
Capekate.
The breeding section of the caresheet was prepared by
Nicole.
The caresheet was standardised and editted by
Armadillo.
Other contributors are creditted next to their text in the caresheet.
Want to add something?
We welcome additions to the caresheet. To contribute a tip or warning, add a post to this thread and we will integrate it to the main body of the caresheet with your name next to it. If you are quoting from a reference, please credit the author.
[Armadillo]
__________________
Equipment requirements
TANK SIZE: Minimum 55gal tank for 5-7 Discus.
FILTER: aqua clear 500 or equivalent size for your tank. Or two aquaclear 50's. (200)
HEATER: At least a 250w heater, again depending on the size of the tank.
THERMOMETER
GLASS CANOPY AND LIGHTED HOOD.
SYPHON/VACUMM
AIR PUMP: Check-valve and airstone or bubble wand for aeration.
DECHLORINATOR: such as Seachem Prime.
PLANTS: advantage of a planted tank are increase in nitrate utilization, hiding places for the fish, and a pleasing decorated look. (optional of course)
GRAVEL: Diverse issue. Some Discus owners will not use gravel in the fear of poor water quality due to waste buildup. Others believe in a BB Bare bottom. In my opinion if you put in the extra time and effort to throughly vacuum your gravel the look in the tank is very appealing.
WATER TEST KIT: Liquid test kit the best way to go. I recommend API Freshwater Master kit.
Temperature requirements
Discus require warmer temperatures than other tropical fish. Preferably 84*-87*, with 82* being the lowest. Use a 250w heater in a 55g tank. 2x 250w heaters on opposite sides of the tank if temp* readings are unstable.
Water quality requirements
Discus require pristine water conditions. This is supplied by frequent water changes.Anywhere from every other day at 25%. Some owners do a twice weekly 40% water change and others have done a once a week water change at 50%.Check your water parameters often with a test kit, and be your own judge as what is best.
Water stability: Stability in water conditions is the key to keeping discus trying to change water paremeters will do more harm than good.They can be kept in a wide range of hardness,its when you are breeding discus that the hardness will matter.
[Nicole]
Water changes: I have learnt that the best way to avoid illness is to do alot of water changes even if your water paremeters are fine, and when there is an illness most of the time I have been able to treat by quarantening the sick fish and doing daily
water changes without medicating.
[Nicole]
Carbon/Activated charcoal
Do not use the AC in the filter. This may lead to disease in Discus fish. Carbon can be used for a short time to remove med. Kept in tank longer, it may result in releasing impurities back into the water resulting in poor water quality and disease.
pH level
For the most part there is no need to change your PH level unless it is so low and acidic that it will burn the fish. Consistency in quality and parameters are more important than using chemicals and additives to lower or raise your PH. PH chemicals measured incorrectly will cause massive PH swings that can kill your fish. Readings of 6.4-7.8 and even 8.5 have been shown to successfully be safe for Discus, as long as the PH does not fluctuate.
Food
A variety of food that consist of: Blackworms, Tetra Flakes, beefhearts(messy), Omega One Color enhanced Flakes, Omega One freeze dried bloodworms, Hikari frozen Brine Shrimp,Hikari frozen Krill and Hikari (sterilized) bloodworms are a few choices that come to mind.
Juvenile Discus need to be fed often. At least 5 times a day. "Small amounts.. more often" is the general rule of thumb. The adults should be fed at least 3-4 times a day. Take the time to slowly feed these fish and you can monitor what gets collected at the bottom of the tank. It may take a little longer to do this, but it helps in the long run with keeping the tank and water clean. When feeding them the beefheart or bloodworms, its a good idea to plan that menu for the day you do a water change.That way you get to clean up what they don't get soon after.
What to look for when buying a new discus
Healthy Discus from a reputable supplier or breeder.
Shape:
Look for roundness of body.
Eyes:
Eyes should be clear. vibrant and round. Eyes that are not in proportion to the body size is a good indicator of stunted growth. Eyes that are chipped usually describe a fish with compromised genetics and or inbreeding.Not to say that this fish is ill, and its totally acceptable if you do not want to breed them.
Forehead:
Ideal Discus should have a circular shaped forehead.
Finnage:
Fins should protrude out of the body and curve around in an almost semi circle shape. Thin fins can indicate poor nutrition and frayed fins can indicate disease.
Other good signs:
Over all watch for good breathing rates, gill movement and body language, and stress/mood bars. Does this Discus interact with others or stay in the corner of the tank? Is its coloring very dark... blotchy... Does it appear lethargic? These are indicators of a weak fish or one that may be sick or overly stressed.
Finally remember: Clean water and a varied diet make for a happy, healthy fish! Happy fishkeeping!!!
~ kate
Quarantaine:
Always quarantaine when you purchase newbies that are going to be added to a community tank,it will save your fish if there are any underlyeing illness.
[Nicole]
New tankmates: Discus are very picky when it comes to adding any new ones..If you notice a sudden change in behaviour after a new addition be patient, it doesn't allways mean there is an illness.
[Nicole]
Disease Diagnostic [by Nicole]
This is a basic signs/symptoms chart to add to the caresheet. Please note that this is a general guide and is based on my personal experience and what I've learned through keeping discus.
Cloudy Eye: Clear white, transparent film covering one or both eyes. There are a few causes the main cause being poor water conditions. Other possible causes could be fungus,bacterial and parasites. The first step I would take is alot of water changes over a period of time and see if this helps, also when purchasing discus check what pH they have been kept in as this can also be a cause.
Skin and Gill Flukes: Rapid breathing, scratching against objects, holding one gill closed are all signs. Start with doing 50% water changes daily and seek appropiate medication.
Fin Rot: Frayed or decaying fins,one of the main causes is again poor water conditions although that is not allways the case.Treat fin rot as soon as you notice it to prevent secondary infections. I had a bad case once, and treated it with 5ml of melafix to 10g water with every water change.I done daily water changes for 5 days and successfully treated this problem. Another way is daily water changes with salt added.
Hexamita: First signs would be slimy white feces/shedding stomach lining,loss of appetite,weight loss.Gradually fish will isolate itself and become very dark in colour and hang its head.If detected in early stages you can treat by turning the temp up in tank and daily water changes add salt to water.If fish is passed early stages more invasive treatment is needed such as metro daily.
Tapeworm: White segmented feces,treat with prazi and keep water conditions clean.
Hole in the Head: H.I.T.H. will start of as a small dot in the forehead area although this can happen on other parts of the body. I successfully treated this as I noticed it first as a small pin ***** that was gradually becomming rounder and wider in shape. I did daily 50% water changes for about 2 weeks. It solved the problem and it hasn't returned. If you do get a more serious case of this treat with appropiate medication.
Faeces: The feces of a fish can tell you alot, basically its normally dark, if you notice a change in colour you need to check out the cause. If it white or slimy it can be a sign of internal illness and yellow feces can mean capillaria.
As silly as it sounds keep an eye on what is normal for your fish.
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