AlyeskaGirl

Below is a link for you to read.

http://fish.mongabay.com/diseases.htm

Most fish can adjust to pH......but I'm thinking your pH is too high for the fish that you have and that is causing the problem. But I could be wrong.

What kind of rocks do you have in your tank?

LauraC.

Hi,

I looked at all of those symptoms. While my fish do not gasp at the surface, the other symptoms of PH poisoning are possible. However, my Ph is only 8.2, which is high, but is that high enough to kill cory catfish, platies, guppies, black mollies, danios, cardinal tetras, etc., all of which have died in my tank? Yet other guppies, platies, cardinal tetras, cory catfish, and baby fish are ok? The symptoms are also like ammonia poisoning, but I have no ammonia in my tank! The fish do not scrape or scratch on rocks or on bottom, so the parasites aren't possible.

Yup, still stumped...I'll let you know about the Ph of water out of faucet and fridge (hard and soft water sources) tomorrow!

LauraC.

I have a danio glofish dying - lying on bottom of tank, gasping.
I will do the test on the tap water after 24 hours.
I will do a 50% water change today.
I think I'm going to take all rocks and decorations out of the tank except for the fake plants - maybe there's something in there, although I purchased everything from pet stores (didn't use rocks I found, etc)

My water softener uses salt to soften the water - could this be affecting anything?

More details to come...Thanks, Laura

Lucy

I'm really sorry you've lost fish ans having problems with your tank.

A few members have asked that you post the readings for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
Without knowing these, it's hard to speculate what's going on with your tank.
When fish start dying and acting ill, the first thing to do is rule out water problems.
I know you said you don't have ammonia but nitrite and high nitrate are also toxic to fish.
The API master kit as recommended is a really good kit, much more accurate than the strips and less costly in the long run.

It wouldn't be a good idea to remove the rocks or decorstions. The beneficial bacteria that processes the ammonia not only develops on the filter media but also on the rocks and decorations.

Not sure about how salt in the water conditioner would effect your fish, but some fish just don't do well in salt.

You might want to consider adding an airstone if you don't have one already.

Also. returning your fish and letting the tank sit will not cycle your tank. It needs some sort of ammonia to cycle. If you decide to return your fish, be sure to feed the tank.

Good luck with your tank.

LauraC.

I bought an API master kit - the results were:

ammonia - 0
nitrite - 0
nitrate - between 5 and 10
Ph - high, at about 8.2

I have a little jet motor (separate from filter) that circulates the water more...what does an air stone do?

I'm just really at a loss - There are a few fish that are doing just fine, but the majority die within a week or two.

Thanks for helping me get through this! I don't want to give up the aquarium altogether - it was great before the fish started dying. Laura

Nate McFin

What were the Ph results of the glasses of water?
If you do a WC and skip the softener you will need to add the water very slowly so as not to shock the fish. There will be a Ph difference between the two. If the water is drinkable out of the softener I dont see why it would cause issues.
Its really hard to nail down why your fish are having probs. According to your tests things look fine. Which would point to either disease or chemical poisoning. If none of the other fish are having probs it doesn't sound like chemical. Maybe Copper from copper pipes? Just guessing! If you use a water conditioner that detoxifies heavy metal that would take care of possible issues there.
I still would hesitate to medicate when you dont have other symptoms to go along with it.

Lucy

An airstone creates bubbles in the tank, if I understand it correctly when the bubbles burst at the top they release oxygen into the water.

I agree with Nate, your readings are fine, Ph is a little high but most times fish can adapt to different ph's as long as it's stable.

Do you quarantine new fish before adding them to your tank? It's recommeded to put them in a q tank for at least 2 weeks before adding the to your existing stock.

LauraC.

Ok,

I checked the Ph levels of my tap water, both from soft and hard water sources. The Ph levels were consistant with the aquarium water, about 8.2-8.4.

I haven't been quarantining the fish - does that protect the fish already established in the fish tank or the new ones? Right now, I have several fish that have been in there a while and big and healthy, while the newer ones are dying.

Should I just let the sick fish die, then let the remaining fish alone for weeks or a month and then try again? Should I drain more than 50% water? I just can't figure out what's wrong, so I can't fix it!

The danio glofish is now stuck (sucked onto) the filter intake. Keep in mind, though, I still have 3 babies that were born in this water doing fine!

We're in a new construction house...don't know what that means, for copper pipes, but I would think we wouldn't have them. I do use conditioner when I add water, too.

I had previously treated for bacterial and fungal infections - this was because one fish obviously had a fungal infection, which was cured with the treatment, and because other fish had already started dying. They were the all natural treatments (aloe, tree bark stuff) sold at stores, and I have had the carbon filter back in for a while now.

I have the jet on one side of the tank, blowing towards the top, and the filter outtake on the other side of the tank blowing towards the top (for oxygen circulation)...this couldn't cause a crosscurrent in the middle, creating a problem? There isn't such a thing as too much oxygen, right? I'm grasping at straws, I know! Thanks, Laura

cerianthus

I am sorry to hear such massive losses/problems.
Yes, your pH seems pretty high for majority of fish, but not all. Your losses could've been results of combinatin many reasons including pH.
If your tap is that hard and high in pH, is there any way you can
1. Add driftwood to lower the pH (true driftwood, not one that is attached to slate)? May tint color to tea color but can be dealt with later.
2. Prepare Large New Plastic Garbage Container where you can age water with Peat Moss (to soften/lower pH)?

Adding chemicals may not help due to Very Hard Tap Water.

What kind of substrate/Rocks do you have?

W/ an assumption that tank is cycled , Would not tear down the tank. Too much work and may results in more problems?.

If you can answer those questions, I maybe able to assist.
Wish you luck!

LauraC.

Thank you for your help!

I have hard tap water, but I have a water softener. The majority of time I have used the soft water for my tank - only recently did I fill about 1/4 of the tank with hard water (advice from LFS to help with the mass die off-didn't work). When I just used the soft water, the tests strips showed my water as VERY soft. Now using the test strips, the water now is halfway in between the very soft and very hard water....however, when I change the water today, I will probably just go back to the soft water.

I have 2 pieces of driftwood in my tank, but I boiled them prior to putting them in (recommended for the water color). I could get more and put them in without boiling, if that would help.

I have decorative blue gravel at the bottom of the tank...I have noticed the blue dye coming off some of the rocks...could that be toxic?

Items in tank:
1. blue gravel
2. Disney Ariel and Nemo (thank my kids)
3. Fake plants
4. 2 pieces of driftwood
5. Big rocks that I bought in pet store (sort of multicolored cream/orange/red with decorative holes in them for fish to swim through)

Just a thought - When I add conditioner to new water for water changes, do I add enough for the new water (i.e. about 35 gallons worth) or do I add enough conditioner to cover the entire tank (i.e. 75 gallons worth)? The LFS did test for chlorine and it was negative, but I'm just trying to cover all bases!

Thanks! Laura

Lucy

Quarantining fish protects the fish that are in you tank. The 2 weeks in quarantine gives you a chance to observe them and make sure they're not carrying anything into your tank.

It would be a good idea to move the sick fish into a q tank.
Since your tank looks like it's still cycled I wouldn't bother with changing out that much water. Just weekly maintenance is fine, when parameters are in check.
The thing that kind of stick out to be is when changing the water going from hard to soft, fluctuating Ph's are bad for the fish.
cerianthus can help you with ph questions more than I can.

Fish that are weak can't fight the suction of the filter, again, a q tank with a small sponge filter might be a good idea.

I'm pretty sure most new houses have PVC pipes.

[/quote=LauraC.;583117]There isn't such a thing as too much oxygen, right? I'm grasping at straws, I know! Thanks, Laura[/quote]

I'm not sure about too much oxygen, perhaps someone else can address that.
I don't blame you for looking at any and all things that might be effecting your fish. It sure can be frustrating.

LauraC.

Several weeks ago I cleaned the brown algae off my rocks and plants...I realize now that it may have messed with the beneficial bacteria...however, the mass die off had started before I had done this.

So guppies, platies, rasboras, cardinal tetras should all be able to adjust to very soft water and 8.2 Ph?

Y'know, I'm trying to think if I had any mass die off before my very first cleaning...I was told not to do a cleaning, and about 5 or 6 weeks in, the LFS was shocked that I hadn't done one already. Keep in mind, EVERY time I have gotten my water checked or I check it at home, it has been ok. Ack! Could I have killed all the fish with too much water change? After they told me to start cleaning, I think I did a water change weekly - it was still a new tank, did I get rid of all the bacteria? But wouldn't that show up somehow on the test strips? Sad to say, I would be relieved to find out how I'm killing all the fish!

If I took out too much stuff with either the algae cleaning or water change, would that show up on tests strips? (I just bought the master kit) In that case, should I NOT clean my tank for a while? Should I wait until the water gets really bad? Nitrates 20? Suggestions? Thanks for all the help! Laura

Nate McFin

Dont wait until the water gets bad. 20% per week should be good. Cardinal tetras are sensitive to changes and prefer soft water and low ph. ( think 6.4-6.8) 8.2 may not work for them too well. As Cerianthus said you could add a chunk of driftwood to lower the Ph which since you have soft water should work very well. BUT...you will have to adjust the water during changes with Peat moss before you add it back into the tank or you will be going from a lower Ph (from whatever the driftwood brings it down to and adding the 8.2 tap) Not good to have such a drastic change!
Another option may be to get an reverse osmosis unit.(Search RO) and make your own water exactly where you want it.
It may not be the Ph messing with the fish though.
Are you on a well or city water? Have you done a search for your cities water? For instance mine has a full report online how the water is treated, bacteria found, copper, and Ph Etc. You can also get this info from your local water people.
If your Ammonia is 0 Nitrite-0 and under 20 Nitrates your cycle is fine and NOT crashed.
I would (if it were me) remove some of the items one at a time and see if it goes away. I would start with the disney items. Are these painted ceramic? Maybe lead paint courtesy of China? Then I would take out the driftwood unless you exactly what kind of wood it is and find it to be safe. Dont remove too much at once though!
Also what are you feeding the fish? I seem to remember a thread awhile back about some tainted foods. Maybe its the food source.

LauraC.

Ok,

I've taken out Disney objects and another decoration I forgot to list, a fake plastic coral thing whose paint is peeling off (hm....). I bought the driftwood at the LFS (not a chain pet store), so right now I'm thinking it's ok...but I've been wrong before!

We're on city water, but...is this really supposed to be this complicated? ack!

LauraC.

Hello again,

Yesterday morning I found one of my two cardinal tetras dead. Since then, I have been happy to see no more dead fish.

I was hoping taking out the painted Disney figurines and the rubber coral decorations would help. I also added some stress coat formula to the water.

However, I just looked at my danio glofish and it looks like it has a fungal infection...sorta white, fluffy stuff on its body.

So, would you suggest I treat the whole tank with a natural anti-fungal for a week or should I just get rid of the glofish?

What causes fungal infections?

How long after the last dead fish/fungal infection should I wait to get new fish...a week? two?

Thanks, Laura

Nate McFin

Hi Laura,
Sorry to hear about your tetras.
I have not had to deal with Fungus yet but here is a link to some onfo on the disease page to get you started until someone else can chime in.
By the way removing the decorations will not show any results until water changes have been done. If there was lead paint or something in the figurines themselves causing the problem it would leach into the water.
Here is the link- hope it helps.
http://www.fishlore.com/aquariummaga...ish-fungus.htm

cerianthus

Its not easy to exactly pinpoint the culpit(s).
When you say your softened water, is pH of that soften water lower than tap water? It should be when softened.

As long as no Ammonia (NH3), Nitrite (NO2), would continued to do routine (25-30% weekly) small water changes with softened water until pH of tank is stablized around neutral UNLESS testing reveals otherwise..
When pH goes too low, youo may want to mix soft/hard water to do water changes.


Anytime when NH3 is present, raising pH is the worst thing anyone can do to fish. Keep that in mind.

As far as One sick fish, cant recommend any since not sure if and what it maybe suffering from. Isolating is good idea if and when possible. If separate container is unavail, you can use large hang over the rim pastic container (one that lfs use to catch and hold fish to bag). You can hang these container inside the tank to isolate the one sick fish. If suspect fungal infection, can treat that one sick fish in container with Aq salt/med (proportionate amt to container volume of water) thus no other fish are exposed to unnecessary med.

I know it is lot of work & gadgets but these gadgets will come in handy down the road.
When NH3 and NO2 is NOT registering, you have not lost/disturbed biological bed.

Liquid test is better way to test water than Strips so think of investing in API F/w Master Kit (around $20 online).
I just wish i can assist more/better. Hope tank is stablized soon.