First of all, the fact is Bettas are Tropical fish and have certain requirements that cannot be met in the "Betta Bowl" no matter how advanced.
Heat: *Bettas need a consistent temperature of 76 -80 degrees while they are healthy and to keep them that way. *If they are ill and needing medication that needs to be in the 82 degree range for the medication to have the optimum effect. *If the fish happens to be suffering from ich the temperature needs to go up to 85 degrees for at least 14 days.
The smallest dependable heater is the 25 watt heater. *That is because it is adjustable and has clearly marked settings on most models (those that don't aren't good). *You cannot use a 25 watt heater in a smaller than 2.5 gallon tank and then only with extreme care. *It works better in a 3 to 5 gallon tank.
Filtration: *Being a Tropical fish (any fish for that matter) the tank he is kept in will undergo a rise in ammonia and nitrites as well as nitrates. *These are normal by- products of fish metabolism. *There is no way of getting around having them. *They will occur. *They tank needs to go through a Nitrogen Cycle. *In order to do this, it needs to be filtered. *I would refer you to the following article: *
http://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm *There are small tank filters such as the *Duetto Mini Filter that are excellent, but they start being effective at 2 gallons. *The cycle also takes from 4 to 6 weeks to complete no matter what filter system you get.
Lighting: *They need good lighting for at least 6 to 8 hours a day. *Not direct sunlight as it is too uncontrollable. *It can overheat the tank or cause algae to grow in your tank.
Frequent water testing for nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia: *there are test kits available in most pet shops or online at locations like:
http://www.petco.com,
http://www.petsmart.com,
http://drsfostersmith.com,
http://www.thatpetplace.com, or
http://www.bigalsonline.com. *The ones used most often here are the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Master Kits. *To know what to expect to see please read the article above about the Nitrogen Cycle. *After the tank is cycled the readings should stay as close to 0 as possible for all 3 tests.
Now to address the issue of the water. *First of all, straight distilled water is probably not the best for a fish. *They need a ph to the water and distilled water is pretty much null water. *There needs to be a little something in the way of stability that distilled just doesn't have. *You are much better to use tap water the same temperature as the water you are replacing and get a dechlorinating agent like Stress Coat or Amquel and follow directions to remove the waters harmful qualities. *
Now ROOM: *The minimum amount of space for a healthy betta and a happy one as well is really 5 gallons. *They are not as reported able to thrive in a quart of water. *WE could probably live in a locked bathroom with a sealed door and no windows for ventilation and at the mercy of someone to come and let us out, but we wouldn't LIKE it at all. *I can almost certainly gaurantee that we would not live as healthy or as long. *Same with the betta. *It is my hope that I can encourage the best treatment for these fish. *This is not an accusation or meant to make anyone feel guilty but to make you think about what is really the best thing for the small being in your care. *Taking care of fish is a privilelge that they repay with interest if they are healthy and happy.
Again, welcome to Fishlore.com.
Rose