mlinden84

My betta, Strawberry, has been struggling with finrot since I got him almost 2 months ago. I've tried several different medications and treatments for him. Nothing seems to be working. I am just going to stop medicating and see if daily water changes and vitamins will do any good (since nothing else seems to be working). I've also contemplated removing the heater... although I haven't decided yet... not sure if I could do it, even though my house is always warm. Poor little guy....it doesn't seem to bother him, but his fins look just awful, and there isn't much left of them. He's on my desk so he gets plenty of attention. I can't think of anything else to do... anyone have some ideas?

Phloxface

I wouldn't remove the heater. Colder water will slow his metabolism and make it even harder for him to recover.
Daily water changes and vitamins are good. Which meds have you tried? Some strains of finrot bacteria are very resistant to many antibiotics but a stronger one may help. Have you tried Kanaplex?

mlinden84

I've tried fungus clear, tri sulfa, triple sulfa, and kanaplex (as well as betafix, before I knew that it didn't really work)
The water flucuates between 78-80 (depending on if the light is on or not). Should it be higher than this (ive got one of those heaters that you cannot adjust). As for removing the heater... i was just thinking about all those people who keep their bettas in bowls/vases and don't have the problems....

COBettaCouple

with lower temps, he would slow down like phloxface said and be at high risk of ICH. Are you sure his finrot is bacterial in origin? How much of an effect, even temporary, did fungus clear and triple sulfa have? did he show any regrowth after either or both?

Phloxface

Some types of finrot require 4-6 weeks of continual treatment to resolve. Taking them off meds and switching too much can make the bacteria very resistant.
I would try the Triple Sulfa again and use Jungle Labs Anti-Bacterial food. Stay on it for at least a month. It really seemed to help Rocky but it did take about 5 weeks.
Don't beleive the myth that Bettas kept in cold water don't get fin rot. They most certainly do. Many of the cup Bettas at the store have finrot and they have been in cold water all their lives.

mlinden84

I wasn't really planning on taking the heater out.... just thinking aloud like I always do
I'm not sure if it's bacterial....how do you tell? The fungus clear didn't do anything. He was on the triple sulfa the longest, and he never had any positive change or regrowth. He has a white tail, and there is this nasty black "rot" eating away at it. He has maybe 1/2 inch of fin left (the back one).

I will start up with Triple Sulfa again today. Do I treat as directed only for longer? I hope something works...his fin is getting shorter and shorter....and I thought I read somewhere once it rots completely off it won't grow back and they will also get body rot which is next to impossible to cure? is that correct?

Phloxface

Treat as directed on the package and do try to get the Jungle Labs Anti-Bacteria food. It really seemd to make the biggest difference for me when used together. You can find it nearly anywhere.
Keep his water and tank bottom crystal clean and keep medicating. If you really don't see any change after that then maybe try a gram positive antibiotic like Maracyn. Most fish diseases are gram negative but if nothing else works you could try that.
There is also Tetracycline which works for some.

mlinden84

I'm going to petsmart tomorrow so I'll pick up the medicated food. I've been doing 20% (or so) water changes every day. It probably doesn't matter, but is it better for him to be in a class or acrylic tank? (hes in a 5 gallon mini bow right now)

Phloxface

It doesn't matter. Either one is fine.

COBettaCouple

Here's the basics on how to tell what type(s) of fin rot your betta has:
Fin rot can be the result of a bacterial infection (which causes a more ragged rotting), or as a fungal infection (which rots the tail more evenly and is more likely to produce a white 'edge'). Sometimes, both types of infection are seen together. Infection is commonly brought on by bad water conditions, injury, poor diet...

mlinden84

It is very ragged (entire fin, but its effecting the whole fin not just part) and its black (he has a white fin). He's been struggling with it since I brought him home almost 2 months ago. He's being fed Hikari betta biogold bites, water changes every 2 days (sometimes more often) temp ranges from 78-80. I took out all the gravel to try to keep the tank as clean as possible. So now there is his plastic sword plant (he sleeps on it) and his "no fishing" sign that he also likes to sleep on. I'm all out of ideas/reasons why he still has it...

mlinden84

Just got home from class and noticed that his head and belly have turned white. His entire body is a pale red, and his belly looks enormous. Any ideas of what to do?

cherryrose

I'm sorry that Strawberry is not doing well. I don't know what to tell you about his head and belly turning white, or his swollen belly. Poor little guy. I can't tthink of anything else you could try. Are you using Vitachem and Novaqua or Stress Coat?

I know you are doing your best. I am sending positive thought you way. Hang in there and remember you have been giving him the best life possible.

CherryRose

mlinden84

I use vitachem daily, and stresscoat when I do water changes (along with prime). Can the stress coat be added more often or just with water changes?

cherryrose

I don't know the answer to that question. Maybe someone else?

CherryRose

Phloxface

It sounds like dropsy. That's exactly what happened to my fish when they were in the last stages of the disease. They turned really pale and bloated. Look at him from above. Does it look like his scales are sticking out? Is his belly bloated looking only when you look at him from the side (constipation) or can you see bloating on his sides when you look at him from above?
If it's dropsy he needs meds asap and some epsom salts baths. If it's constipation he should be fasted for a day or two and then peas for a couple days.

mlinden84

I thought it might be dropsy... but his scales aren't sticking out. He looks big all over. He has been eating 2-3 small pieces of pea for the last week or so, it's the only thing he will eat. Should I try fasting him or is he ok with the peas?
What meds do I need to treat him with? and how do I do the epsom salt baths?

Phloxface

You need Kanaplex. It's the only thing strong enough.
Epsom salt bath once a day for 15 minutes or take him out sooner if he shows signs of distress. 1 tablespoon epsom salt per gallon. Watch him the whole time he is in there. You'll need to stick an airstone in there for oxygen. You can use any large container or even a bucket.

mlinden84

Well he's still with us... still really bloated, but doesn't have the "pineconing". But he is now refusing to eat. Started treating him with kanaplex last night and today he got a salt bath. He seemed to do fine, but what would possible signs of distress be?

nmwierman1977

I'm sorry to hear about Strawberry. Not eating is definitely one of them, laying on bottom of tank is another. I hope he pulls through for you. Natalie

mlinden84

He has just been hanging out on his sword plant leaf all day.
what are possible signs of distress for him when I give him the epsom salt bath? (sorry should have clarified)

nmwierman1977

one big one is going belly up which a lot do. In my opinion I think aquarium salt is a lot better and safer to use since it's specifically used for fish. Epsom salt can be too strong for them to handle and that's why a lot of them go belly up when it's put in with them. People have used it successfully though. Natalie

Phloxface

Aquarium salt shouldn't be used because it has the opposite effect. Epsom salt is not the same as regular salt. When giving an epsom salt bath you always watch them carefully and remove them right away if they look wobbly. You can start with a smaller dose like 1/2 tablespoon per gallon and see how he does. You never leave them in longer than 15 minutes.

mlinden84

Ok thanks for the info. Is it ok to be giving the salt baths even if I am not sure that he has dropsy? He's bloated, but doesnt have the pineconing.

Phloxface

It will help relieve the bloating.

mlinden84

Ok. I actually got him to eat a bite of pea this morning! I was excited. He is looking better, or maybe it is just my hopefull imagination. He did fine with his salt bath this morning. Still no pineconing, which I am hoping is a good sign.

COBettaCouple

that's good news! hopefully the first step in his recovery.

nmwierman1977

I used Aquarium salt when Royell had Dropsy and he was perfectly fine and it helped him tremendously.All the salt is supposed to do anyway is reduce the bloating and for Royell it did that. Aquarium salt is specifically used for cases like dropsy. He stayed alive well p***ed the 14 day time span that they say they usally die in when they have Dropsy. He actually beat dropsy, but ended up dying anyway from hole in the head disease. His body was just too weak to recover from anything he may have gotten afterwards. Some people prefer RO use epsom salt, I prefer to use aquarium salt. With aquarium salt too you can leave the fish in the tank. You don't have to take them out after 15 min. Everyone has their own way of taking care of their fish. It's just a personal preference. Natalie

nmwierman1977

I'm glad that he's doing better for you anyway. Hopefully it'll stay that way and he'll make a full recovery. Natalie

mlinden84

I FINALLY found the medicated food. Now how do I get the little bugger to eat it? I've tried soaking it in water then cutting it up so it's not as big, I've tried the garlic guard stuff, nothing seems to be working. I've gotten him to take a nibble of pea and a betta bite (the hikari ones) but not very often. (maybe every 2-3 days). He's still got the bloated look. He looks awful. His fins are almost all the way gone.