beginnerfishlover

Okay, you may all think I'm nuts, but is it really important to test for nitrate and nitrite levels? I have never tested them in my 5 gallon tank, but I here zebras are hardy, so it might not matter. I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing, so if I should start testing for that, just tell me.

Also, do you know of any tests that will test all of these important things in one? I have pH tablets that level the pH, but what do you use to get the right nitrite and nitrate levels?

Thanks for all the help,
beginnerfishlover

capekate

Seeing that your tank is 9 months old now, you have gone through the nitrogen cycle, so testing to find if you are cycled is not necessary at this point. I dont know of any tests that do it all in one other than the test strips but they have proved to be unreliable. API master test kit seems to be the best way to go for water tests, and are separate tests, not all in one.

IMO since you are using PH tablets, I would be checking that with a PH test to make sure that you are not fluctuating the PH level in your tank which can be harmful to your fish.
If you do regular water changes weekly, I really do not see any reason to test for nitrAtes at this point. You shouldnt have any nitrItes in your cycled tank now, so that test would not be necessary either.
Promoting the use of water tests is recommended for those starting a new tank and need to test the water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Its important to know when the tank is cycled.. and when you can add fish.
For those that have fish in a uncycled tank, and were not aware of the dangers of trying to cycle a tank with fish, it is recommended highly to use these tests.

beginnerfishlover

OK, so nitrites and nitrates should basically only be tested with a new tank. I wasn't sure. I cycled my tank with my fish...I hardly new anything about anything in the fish world. Pretty bad, I know, but it turned out alright. I know a lot more now, but I just wasn't sure about the nitrites and nitrates. Thanks for the help.

steveangela1

I would still check for nitrates and nitrites... with an older cycled tank your nitrates can go way high, and w/ them going up above 20ppm you should be aware of that spike. There are also things that will raise your nitrites that I would still check nitrites for, like excess food in the bottom of the tank, proper filitration, etc... they may be hardy fish but still trace amounts can be stressful to any fish... I would check about every week for those levels... I also agree that a ph test is important w/ the ph buddies being placed into the tank, is there a way to alter the ph w/o the chemical?
I have a tank that is about 6 years old and I still check it w/ my api every 2-4days for all levels.... just out of habit... Up until I got my african cichlids I used the jungle test strips.. but I felt after I got them I should get something more accurate (also more expensive tanks and more of them)

If your nitrite/nitrate levels are off you should do a water change daily (about 10-20 percent until they are down to normal) there are chems out there to bring those levels down.

susitna-flower

I do not agree with several of capekate's statements. They assume you are doing weekly water changes....

Basically a tank is never "safe" from a possible mini-cycle....which means a weekly test before you do a water change is always a good idea...for all three ammonia, nitrite , and nitrate.

This could be brought on by vigorous cleaning of your tank, changing filter media, use of medications, adding more fish, a dead fish you can't find.....

Nitrate levels in an established tank will depend on the amount you feed your fish, and how much water you change out. It can start around 10, and even with weekly changes of 25%, can creep up in time to 80 or higher. YOU have to test to know how much to change every week. If your nitrates are up around 40 you are going to want to do AT LEAST 50%. If you start experiencing disease, your first suspect is that the nitrite, or nitrate levels are up, and are stressing the fish. Stressed fish are susceptible to opportunistic infections, bacterial, fungal, or parasitic.

Remember your tank is just 5 gallons.....water conditions can change quickly.

As for PH.....there is NO reason for you to be trying to adjust that in a normal community type tank. Most fish adjust better to your natural ph, than they can handle the ups and downs of the adjustments. You can also destroy the natural buffering in a tank , which then will cause a drastic drop in ph, which will result in health problems for your fish.

A 5 gallon tank is a learning ground. If you learn to do things with an understanding of what you are learning, then the next bigger tank will be much easier. The problems of 3 danios in a 5 gallon tank can be multiplied a thousand times over if you had an oscar in a 75 gallon tank. It is good to learn now how to do it right.

I Do agree that the API Master Test kit for freshwater (liquid) is the most reliable test to use, and suggest taking these three tests every week and charting the results.

hiddencat

I bought an API liquid test kit yesterday, and it included the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and high pH tests for about $30, fyi. So you can find them bundled together.

capekate

Hi hiddencat, I think.. and only assuming that when the question was asked if there are any tests 'bundled together', they were wondering about an all in one test. Like a strip where you put it in the water and gives you the range of tests all at one time. The API, which I use, yes has all the tests in the kit, but they all have to be tested separately.

capekate

I had been using the API test kit regularly for a long time with my tanks. Once my tanks cycled, and I continued to test, the results were always the same under normal conditions. I continue to do weekly water changes of 50% on my tanks, never having ammonia, nitrite readings ever again and without testing the water, I just do it .
YES there are times that a tank can go through a mini cycle, for all the reasons that susitna flower mentioned above. When changing out all the filter media, or adding new fish, its a good idea to use the test kit.
My point was that there really is no reason to do a test every other day, after your tank has cycled... under normal conditions.
In my response, I said that she didnt really need to do water tests to see if she was cycled yet. After nine months, Im going to believe that the tank is cycled. If Beginnerfishlover said that they introduced new fish to the tank, I would suggest testing the water. If Beginnerfishlover said that they changed out the gravel.. filter media.. and did a huge water change, I would suggest a water test.
I just believe, IMO that under normal conditions you should not have to do water tests every other day.. or every day or even once a week once the tank is cycled.. After awhile you know what your tank is doing.. and you know what changes have occurred that may give you reason to do a water test.
That is the way I take care of my tanks.. and I do a water test from time to time when I have added new fish.. or made too large a water change, or changed out filter media or did a over zealous house cleaning.
When I test the water... the ammonia is 0, nitrIte 0. and the nitrates are always around 10. Its what works for me.

steveangela1

right now foster and smith have the api kits for 15.99.... I am thinking of ordering another full kit... I bought my first set in feb... but as much as I test my tanks and my mother in laws, and my mothers for her... I need a backup...

My every other day testing I do, I have a chart on excel that I keep saved so I can go back and see my ups and downs of my values... my most unstable tanks... my 5g and 10g... my 55 and 36 are almost always perfect....
my 10g gives me the most nitrite trouble... showing that smaller tanks are more unstable... and the water changes quickly.

MissMTS

Noooooooo! Your kidding I just bought a 30 dollar API test kit yesterday at Petsmart, and I placed an order for fish meds from Dr. Foster and Smith last night. Oh brother......

COBettaCouple

I would recommend testing weekly to watch for spikes in water chemistry and not altering the pH.

beginnerfishlover

OK, so basically I should get the API master kit and not chemically change the pH. My tap water is normally 7.6 on the pH scale (I have the API pH tester). So that won't hurt the fish??

And this brings up another thing...how often should I clean out the tank...and how much sould I take out? I had read once a month (that is what I do now) and I do a 50% water change. Is that too much? I'm guessing from what you said susitna-flower, is that it depends on the nitrate levels.

Yes, there is so much I have yet to learn. I just want to do it right, because I eventually would love to get a bigger tank and more fish. Thanks for all of the help.

beginnerfishlover

Yes, but with $10 shipping fee. So it's only $4 cheaper than getting it at Petsmart.

steveangela1

Thats happend to me before! Ive bought stuff before at petsmart/my fav lfs and then didn't look at foster smiths site good.. and we are always ordering from them and we could have saved a ton!

The 10 dollar shipping fee is steep, but when I order from them I try to have a lot of things that I need all at once so its worth my while to order..

On the water changes... a biweekly waterchange for your fish should be sufficient if your nitrites/nitrates/ammonia checks out ok... I would do about 20-25 percent.... Thats what I did for guppies when I had them they were hardy little guys/girls (breed like rabbits, thats why I say I had them I got rid of them finally by giving them away to friends/family)

beginnerfishlover

OK, thanks for the info. I'll definetly get the master kit and then start cleaning the tank every two weeks. Thanks!

hiddencat

Ooooh. No, they're definitely all separate tests, they just came in one box.

kra-z-fishmumm

Just FYI, I usually have to do water changes(20-30%) in my two 2.5g tanks about every 2-3 days as the nitrates (yes nitrates) tend to get real high quickly as does the ammonia. My Betta's, Lady and Abe L. are in each and they go rather wild if I don't do the water change. In my divided 10g, I do a 30% water change weekly. Remember, that does not include fooling with your filter unless you feel you need to rinse it, then you rinse it in some of the old water you have taken out. Have Fun and Good Luck!

LetDiceFly

The key is to use the tests to know how often you need to do water changes. It differs greatly with number and type of fish, size of tank, etc. If you test on a regular basis you can determine how often and how much you need to change the water to keep the nitrates at a safe level.