As far as pH and hardness go, I have a great book written by a guy who has been in the hobby for over 50 years.
He says that pH and hardness,
alkalinity, etc. are important to fish, but not as important as a consistent water chemistry. If acclimated properly, nearly all fish will adapt to the water conditions you have straight from the tap. To alter pH and alkalinity, you set yourself up for a huge headache down the line in that you will never be able to stop altering pH, hardness and alkalinity. Every
water change or evaporation top off will have to be altered to specifically match what is in your tank.
The most important thing is to simply make sure your pH doesn't spike one way or the other. If you use the pH of your water out of the tap as the ideal constant, then high or low pH can be easily corrected through a water change. Alkalinity is important because it acts as a
buffer for your pH. With a high alkalinity, your pH will not be subject to extreme swings toward base or acidic, which will stress your fish.
If you take your time and
acclimate your fish slowly and properly over the span of about an hour, they will adapt to your tanks water conditions. My advice is this...unless you have a degree in chemistry or are a chemical engineer, don't mess with these values. It requires extreme precision and can easily be messed up.
I have 4 discus fish in my 55 gal. with a pH of 7.6 and a hardness level well over 180GH. Anyone here can tell you those are not the conditions they prefer. But, they are healthy and thriving. If you are really concerned about hardness, I would suggest using
RO/DI water you can purchase from most
LFS. This is the easiest and safest way to get naturally soft water.
Also, if your using test strips, get an
API Master Kit. They are much more accurate. Hopefully, I didn't just tell you a bunch of stuff you already know!!!!
