xathine

Just picked up a 20g long setup to mess around with plants for the first time.

Lighting will be about 1.5 WPG. Which I've come to read means absolutly nothing...

I plan on starting with just some java fern / moss and going from there.

My goal is for it to be a heavily planted neon tetra tank.

Questions:
1 - Is there a limit to how many plants can be in a tank? I figure the more plants the less light to go around?

2 - What substrate should I go with?

3 - I won't be using C02, and I plan to do this with no chemical adds, but what kind of food should I pickup for the plants?

eiginh

I use eco-complete it's nice and a buddy of mine uses flourite sand. Eco-complete has nutrients for the plants but I've been advised to add flourish excel every few days or so. Just don't add anarchis or else the plant will melt.

SWilkins

Check out this site http://www.projectaquarium.com/ I have plants don't get me wrong but nothing compared to what these guys do. Well they have given me lots of ideas hummmm maybe too many ideas. I have one tank that I am working on a little each week and maybe it will be done one day. I don't have any special lights but I do want to get some kind of grow tabs for the plants.

xathine

Nice site thanks for that.

Every tank he has he uses CO2 though ><

dvc_r

You will be fine with "low light" plants like the java fern. I agree with the suggestions above (flourite & excel) and do lots of research on what will work for you:
but be warned!!!
You may get addicted to growing plants just as bad as having fish! I've found that when your plants start to grow and flourish and your tank becomes a work of art, you will go plant crazy!!
THERE IS NO END

Beth1965

I can second on the plant addiction.
Beth

Nate McFin

Well said dvc_r
Plants and planted tanks are very addictive!
Eco or Flourite would be a good place to start but the best one to have is the one you like the look of the most. THe one that makes you most involved with the tank is the one to get. For mosses and Java fern a specialized substrate is not needed as both of those plants feed from the water column. Other plants like Crypts and swords feed from the roots and require nutrients in the substrate. (the nutrients can come root tabs - a fertilizer as well!)
Substrates lose the nutrients over time so when that happens one would either have to replace the substrate or switch to fertilizers anyway. You can use plain old pool filter sand to grow plants as long as you fertilize properly and have the correct lighting and/or Co2 needs for the plants you choose. You do not always need a special substrate.
With Java fern and moss you may not even need to fertilize as the fish poo and water changes should give you most of the nutrients you need. (This is especially true with low light and non Co2 set ups)
My best advice is start with a few plants ....you will learn if-
a. if you like them or not (you will)
b. what types of plants you like as well as what types of "styles" of design you prefer
look at lots of tanks and see what appeals to you and go from there!
Best Wishes and looking forward to photos!
Nate

dvc_r

Thanks for clarifying everything Nate. I didn't have time to elaborate my last post. You covered most the basics. And yes, Java ferns absorb nutrients better if tied to something rather than in any substrate. I have both, but my best Java fern has covered a large piece of driftwood (It's beautiful). I'll have to upload a picture tomorrow.
Also one other point, as the nutrients in the substrate diminish the tank becomes more "established" and that in itself puts back nutrients into the substrate.
And of course the best part about plants:
More more plants, the less VACUUMING!

I love Plants!

xathine

Haha well I can't wait to get my new tank setup!

Would they be okay to add before the tank cycles?

And, aside form the java fern / java moss - what other plants do not use roots and are low light?

coffeebean

i say there are only too many plants when the fish dont have enough room to swim.

my tanks are all low - mid light. i do not use CO2 in any of them and dont regularly add ferts. only a couple of the needier plants have a root fert stick on them.

you can check out my blog for the plant list and pics if you are interested.
the 55 is tracked from day one set up, flourite with gravel on top. the 25 is mostly gravel with a wee bit of flourite. the 20 is straight gravel, and the two tens are sand.

i did the 55 with a 'silent cycle' using the plants to buffer the water parameters.
you can add all your plants at any time, before during or after your cycle. they will likely help your cycle along dramatically if you plant heavily

SWilkins

Your welcome. Yeah I know he uses CO2 with them but boy are they gorgeous. I just go there and drool but you do get some ideas just looking at different setups.

Nate McFin

Great articles in that link Swilkins! I am going to give the "How to attach Riccia" a try in my next tank. His tanks are stunning as well...wow.
dvc_r- I would love to see a pic of that plant!
Coffee= tanks are looking great NICE. What type of root tabs are you using? ( I use Seachem myself at the moment)

For other low light light plants there are tons... Vals, anubias, anacharis are all bottom feeders. Root tabs for root plants are easy to use and basically work like a fertilizer stick. Just push one into the gravel under or near the plant and the roots will find it.
My current tank doesnt have anything more than small river rock and my plants have done great. I do have medium light however. List of current plants is Wisteria,Amazon swords, chain swords, crypts( 2 varieties) and Java moss. Next week I am adding more Giant Baby Tears as I killed the first batch with a salt treatment for ICH. Which brings up another matter. Quarantine (if possible) all new incoming plants and fish! It is really tough to treat a planted tank for diseases without harming the plants.disinfect plants using a 1 part bleach to 19 parts water solution. Dip 1-2 minutes to (hopefully) kill snail eggs, hitchhiking algae, and possible parasites. Its not fool proof but it is a good measure to take.
Nate

xathine

thanks for the replies everyone!

coffeebean

i use Nutrafin 'plant gro' sticks. i only have them on specific plants. in my 25 - giant hair grass (not helping at all though) and my melon sword. in the 55 i have them on the banana plant and the dwarf hairgrass - again, not helping the hairgrass

SWilkins

Nate that "How to attach Riccia" works great. I also sandwiched some between two sheets of screen mesh and have it floating close to the light. I flip it at least once a week and boy am I getting some growth there.

dvc_r

Here is that Java Fern I was talking about. This picture is AFTER I trimmed it!

I took the six inch trimming and put it in another tank. But I don't think it will do well in the other tank because it has too much light. (4-65 watt bulbs).

Attached Images

Java Fern.JPG (235.2 KB, 54 views)

Nate McFin

OMG MAN!!! That thing must be on 'roids! LOL
How long have you had it?

dvc_r

Let me see if I can find a picture from last year (Aug 08 when I got it).

Here it is: You can "kind of" see the two small pieces I initially planted just left of my short lived "prize" fantail guppy! RIP

Attached Images

IMG_3396.jpg (108.9 KB, 47 views)

Nate McFin

My hats off to you. That is incredible growth. You really should check into getting that thing its on zip code. HAHA

dvc_r

And here is when I thought it looked it's best:

Attached Images

30 hex after.jpg (238.8 KB, 30 views)

xathine

So plans changed.

I picked up a 30g long. And there is only a single 20w bulb

For a whoping total of .6 WPG

><

dvc_r

Well the good news is "The Bigger, the Better", You will like the 30 gal more than the 20 gal. All you'll need to do is follow craigslist until you find something. How wide is the tank? Can you put two lights back to back? (just another option) That's what I did to two of my tanks.

xathine

Its 3' long and 1' wide.

Not enough room for two lights.

Currently using a 20" long bulb =/