The yeast was less than a buck a pack, Sustina-flower.

Thanks for the nice words. I'm using twice my baking yeast dose, but I think it's still pretty economical with a pack yielding close to two 32 oz. batches. I'll let it run down next time and report how long this yeast produces a strong CO2 output. Here's an update on my planted Mini-Bow 7 blackwater nano-biotype
The recipe of 1 tsp. yeast + 32 oz. water + 1 cup sugar + 1/4 tsp. baking soda is really ripping and the output is actually a little bit too strong for my comfort level. I might try 3/4 tsp. of yeast next time (and cut this batch with a little water). My Hydor submersible air pump powered diffuser is pumping up the blackwater up to a calculated 30
PPM CO2. (30 -35 ppm is as high as we should go with fish, I've read.) I may cut it back a little because there's quite a bit of uncertainty in the
pH/KH/CO2 calculation, due to the limited precision of pH and KH readings. The calculated CO2 value will vary considerably with even with a small pH change (pH is a logarithmic scale) whereas it's linear with KH changes. I'm planning to buy a digital pH meter and that will help improve my confidence in calculated CO2 levels. I am running a modest air flow through an aeration stone too. It's tucked away under my
HOB filter outflow and the chocolate gouramis don't seem to mind it. It generates a little surface turbulence--actually, providing faster CO2 loss! The CGs are pretty well protected from the currents by all the surface plants, but I don't really want to crank up the airstone and turbulence any higher to blow off extra CO2 and stay below 30 ppm.
Even though I've strayed a little from other CG Asian blackwater biotypes, I'm very happy with my setup. I have more plants than most similar projects and some would say the tank is overstocked; my final count is two CGs and five Hengel's rasboras. (I recently added two additional rasboras when I found the plants equilibrated the nitrates at a nice low 5 ppm.) The water quality is excellent for Asian blackwater fish at
pH=6.3
DKH=2
dGH=2
nitrate=5ppm
the fish remain healthy and the nitrates are now at an amazingly low equilibrium level.
The CO2 is helpful in driving the pH of lower (along with Indian almond leaves) but it's also a mission critical component. If the CO2 injection fails, the pH will climb. Everything else being equal, the higher the
alkalinity of the water (KH buffering), the higher the pH will soar, if the CO2 fails. (What's the opposite of a pH "crash" -- a pH "blast?") In other words, if an aquarist sets up injection to realize high level of CO2 goal for plants (say 30+ ppm CO2) but then uses a
buffer to keep the pH from dropping too much, the pH will blast upwards, if the CO2 injection stops. I've read that, at less than 1 dKH, pH becomes very unstable when injecting CO2 so we need some small level of buffering at the very least. 2dKH seems to be sufficient, in my experience, and the CGs are happy.
Even when I was using a Nutrafin ladder style diffuser and getting about 20 ppm CO2, the plants were going crazy in this tank. I've increased my
water change interval to a fairly normal 25% every week. It's difficult to measure small nitrate changes, but the nitrates seem to reach an equlibrium of 5 ppm, due to the prolific plants, no doubt. The surface is about 45% riccia and 45% water sprite and I also have a few needle java ferns on some wood and my moss wall is growing out nicely.
I'm now running the ladder diffuser from a 2nd bottle of wine yeast and it's producing about 20 ppm CO2 in my 10 gal. I'll be setting up my 125 gal. in about a week. If I plant it, I'll think about graduating to a CO2 gas bottle and regulators.
-Cal