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December 3rd, 2007
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Fish Master
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why oh why are all my plants dying......
Gosh, I don't know what it is but I am hopeless at keeping plants. My 20long catfish tank was originally going to be "densely planted" but it is now "sparsely planted with half-dead plants."  All I've got in it are java fern (which are actually doing pretty well), java moss (doesn't seem to be growing), and various Aponogetons which did well at first but are now dying off (I used to have other plants too but they died). I'm not adding anything (ferts or co2) and my lighting is just what came with the tank, but all the plants I've tried to keep are supposed to be able to survive without special care, so I can't figure out why they just die. I guess that means I need better lighting or ferts or something but I really am clueless when it comes to plants. I don't care if they grow super fast or look super nice, I just want them to stay alive!!...grrrrrrr. So if anyone can help me out that would be great......... |
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December 3rd, 2007
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Moderator
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good morning Omoorokh!  I cant help you out because I am in the same boat as you with plants. I think the clue is, no co2, no ferts and the light that came with the tank. ( same as my problem). I thought that by buying "low light" plants would work.. but it doesnt seem to. I have reverted to using the very nice silk plants, at least they look better than my dead ole plants did. I would much rather use real plants tho. I think its much better for the tank.
Maybe some one will give us some ideas on what or rather how much lighting and what type to use at least for low light plants? For your 20g long tank you probably dont need as much lighting as I would need for the 55g.
Any help out there for us?? 
 ~ kate |
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December 3rd, 2007
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Fish Addict
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About 1.5wpg is ideal for "low-light" plants with no co2... you don't really want any higher than 2wpg and below 1wpg you can pretty much only have anubias, java ferns, java moss and a few kinds of crypts. It might be a good idea to use some sort of fertiliser as well. I have 0.88wpg on my tank and the plants are doing really well, and that's including a hygrophila corymbosa that's rated 2-3wpg. I add API Plant Zone once a week. The wpg rule is pretty generalised, if you have a bigger tank less wpg is required than on a small one. Then you can get into all the technical light stuff. if I were you I'd get a 20w-30w light for your tank, or make the wpg higher with an extra light if you can find the wattage of your current light.
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December 3rd, 2007
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Fish Master
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Capekate, glad to hear I'm not the only one with an un-green thumb.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
About 1.5wpg is ideal for "low-light" plants with no co2... you don't really want any higher than 2wpg and below 1wpg you can pretty much only have anubias, java ferns, java moss and a few kinds of crypts. It might be a good idea to use some sort of fertiliser as well. I have 0.88wpg on my tank and the plants are doing really well, and that's including a hygrophila corymbosa that's rated 2-3wpg. I add API Plant Zone once a week. The wpg rule is pretty generalised, if you have a bigger tank less wpg is required than on a small one. Then you can get into all the technical light stuff. if I were you I'd get a 20w-30w light for your tank, or make the wpg higher with an extra light if you can find the wattage of your current light.
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The bulb I currently have on the tank is 17w. Is that ok, or should I try to find a bulb with a higher wattage? Also, what kind of bulb should I get when I have to replace it? At stores they always have a bunch of different bulbs with different spectrums-is there one that is best for plants? Also, I've heard that you shouldn't add ferts without co2. Is this true? Otherwise it wouldn't be a problem for me to add ferts. |
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December 3rd, 2007
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Fish Keeper
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Lamps that replicate the spectrum that most closely resembles daylight are the best. That's usually in the 6000 - 10000 degree kelvin range. The lower end is more redish; the upper more blue/yellow.
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December 3rd, 2007
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Fish Master
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsalemi
Lamps that replicate the spectrum that most closely resembles daylight are the best. That's usually in the 6000 - 10000 degree kelvin range. The lower end is more redish; the upper more blue/yellow.
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Ummm...so will it say "X degree kelvin" on the box, or how do I tell? |
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December 4th, 2007
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Fish Addict
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It'll say something like 7500k. You could stick with that light okay I think, but you could only grow java ferns, anubias and java moss like I said. It would also be a good idea to keep the light on for a long time (I keep my 0.88wpg on for 12.5 hours a day). If your parameters and plants are doing well, then there won't be an algae problem because of that. If you want to grow a better variety of plants, I'd suggest you add a second light of similar wattage.
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December 4th, 2007
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Fish Addict
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You'll be just fine adding ferts before co2.
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December 4th, 2007
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Fish Master
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
It'll say something like 7500k. You could stick with that light okay I think, but you could only grow java ferns, anubias and java moss like I said. It would also be a good idea to keep the light on for a long time (I keep my 0.88wpg on for 12.5 hours a day). If your parameters and plants are doing well, then there won't be an algae problem because of that. If you want to grow a better variety of plants, I'd suggest you add a second light of similar wattage.
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Yeah, I don't mind the algae that much (except when the water turned green a while ago and I couldn't see my fish, but I've gotten rid of most of it).....but the plants definately look a bit nicer.  Don't worry though, my parameters are great...I realized the excess algae was mostly due to sunlight (kind of long explanation...)...and the rest of the algae is just me too lazy to wipe off the side panels
Thanks for the input everyone |
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