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July 31st, 2008
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Fish Bum
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Tank Cycling Setback by Vacation
Hello, I am enjoying the forum so far! To make a long story short, my fish were overfed during my 9 day vacation, so my cycle was practically none existent in my 29 gallon tank, and ammonia was ridiculously high of level 2. I immediately did a 50% water change and got it down to level one. The next day I did another 50% water change and got it to .5. It was holding steadily at that level until I took a lot of fish out
(I was mistakenly referred to believe by a local petstore that I had to have 6-10 starter fish for a tank to cycle and they wouldn't take the fish back!!) So now my poor things are all separated. I have my dwarf gourami in a 3 gallon by himself, 2 platies in my cycling 10 gallon (I just moved one over from a smaller tank, which wasn't as badly overfed while I was gone thank goodness. Now I have 2 platies in a 2 gallon (bad I know but I am not sure where to put everyone) It's only temporary.
Anyway now it seems to be holding steady at .25 or a little less with my 5 ghost fish, 1 molly mom, and 1 baby fry. She doesn't seem to be releasing any more babies since that 1 fish on July 19th.
My current stats are Ammonia between 0 and .25, nitrite between 0 and .25, and nitrate 5. The level of nitrate in my tap water is 10! So my question is, is it safe to hold the ammonia level at .25 without changing the tank so that the bacteria as an easier time to grow? I heard too many water changes can make the cycle go even slower! I have had mixed responses on the .25 ammonia level and and .25 nitrate level for a cycling tank. Will someone tell me if I should keep changing my tank every day 25% until my tank hits the 0 mark, or should I let it sit in the tank at .25. Will the bacteria be able to grow with this level of ammonia or not? Seems like it is having trouble getting to the next phase of my cycle. What should I do? Thanks! Also if you would like to comment on what to do with my fish and who to put where please do! I was contemplating putting my dwarf gourami in the 10 gallon alone, but I heard they could do well in tanks that are 3-5 gallons as well, so I wanted to make the most use of the space by putting more fish in the 10 gallon 2 at most for cycling is ok right? Sorry for all the questions!
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July 31st, 2008
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Moderator
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Hi Birdo,
I'm sorry you were misinformed by the fish store, don't hate when you rely on their 'expert' advise? Now you know better
You're right, changing the water makes the cycle go slower, but you must do it for the sake of your fish. Bacteria needs the ammonia to grow, but any amount of ammonia and nitrite can be harmful to your fish, so you must keep up with water changes until readings are 0 for ammonia and nitrites with some nitrates showing.
With your readings, it looks like your getting close.
Sorry, I can't answer you question about your dwarf gourami, I don't know anything about them.
Good luck and keep asking questions, you'll get plenty of help here.
Oh!! Welcome to Fish Lore!
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July 31st, 2008
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Fish Master
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welcome to fishlore birdo!!
Sorry for all the fishies and the mini cycle, but unfortunately, DAILY water changes of at least 50% are needed with ammonia or nitrites at any reading ....they are deadly to fish no matter what ammounts so the changes are a must from this point...the toughest thing is going to be patience...because it could take days, or weeks to complete this cycle with fish..I would get some prime to treat the tap water with water changes as prime locks the ammon and nitrite for 24 hours until your next change...as far as moving the gourami to a 3 gal tank, I wouldnt...thats not enough room for those territorial buggers...why dont you keep him in the 29 gal? was he being nawty? and 10 gallon alone wouldnt be bad, but no other fish unless some cories maybe as again, gourami's like to be boss...cycleing with fish is the hardest way and such wrong information from your pet stores is very common  ...I hope things work out...goodluck!
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July 31st, 2008
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Fish Bum
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Thanks everyone for your prompt responses!
So I have a question if I keep changing the tank until there is no ammonia levels left wouldn't that mean there is no bacteria to help cycle the tank? How would I keep changing the tank to hit ammonia at 0 level without completely distroying the cycle? I am sure you know what you are doing, but I am just curious on how that would work if there is no ammonia for the bacteria to eat? I understand that ammonia and nitrates are toxic to fish, and that's why I heard you put in hardy fish first to cycle the tank. However, I guess I don't understand how much ammonia to leave in for the tank to continue cycling?
I moved everyone out of the tank because the ammonia levels would not drop below .5 no matter how many changes I did. I have a plastic linden mat that snaps together and looks like coral for the bottom of the tank instead of gravel. Is this affecting the really slow cycle too? I can move the dwarf gourami into the 10 gallon but the current is so strong it appears to stress him out. He seems to be happy in the 3 gallon making a lot of bubble nests, but I will take your advice into serious consideration. The 29 gallon is a nice home, which I plan on moving everyone back in as soon as the tank is done cycling. The current is adjustable on that filter. Ironically the 10 gallon would have better currents for the ghost fish, who love the current, but I didn't want to overload the biofilter. Since they are schooling fish they need to be all put together. It's just as well, they'd eventually need a bigger tank than a 10 gallon anyway.
I read that dwarf gouramis do ok in smaller tanks from 3-5 gallons 3 being the minimum, but I guess I heard wrong. I wasn't sure if putting a 3 inch fish for a starter fish would be too much for the 10 gallon's biofilter to handle and make things go off again.
I use AquaSafe fluid that supposedly has good bacteria in the mixture as well as chemicals to clear out the clorine and chloramine. I heard about the ammonia lock stuff, but I also heard that if you do this you won't know the proper ammonia reading with the tests. It will still come up as ammonia in the tank, though it has been neutralized with the chemical. If that is true I wouldn't it be more confusing to a beginner to not know the ammonia level or if it is working? Sorry for all the questions. I really appreciate all the advice. I guess I will do a 50% water change today instead of a 25% and maybe use the gourami as my starter cycling fish for the 10 gallon instead of the platy, and I will try to block some of the current with more plastic plants. Thanks everyone!
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August 1st, 2008
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Fish Helper
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Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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August 1st, 2008
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Fish Master
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdo
Thanks everyone for your prompt responses!
So I have a question if I keep changing the tank until there is no ammonia levels left wouldn't that mean there is no bacteria to help cycle the tank? How would I keep changing the tank to hit ammonia at 0 level without completely distroying the cycle? I am sure you know what you are doing, but I am just curious on how that would work if there is no ammonia for the bacteria to eat? I understand that ammonia and nitrates are toxic to fish, and that's why I heard you put in hardy fish first to cycle the tank. However, I guess I don't understand how much ammonia to leave in for the tank to continue cycling?
I moved everyone out of the tank because the ammonia levels would not drop below .5 no matter how many changes I did. I have a plastic linden mat that snaps together and looks like coral for the bottom of the tank instead of gravel. Is this affecting the really slow cycle too? I can move the dwarf gourami into the 10 gallon but the current is so strong it appears to stress him out. He seems to be happy in the 3 gallon making a lot of bubble nests, but I will take your advice into serious consideration. The 29 gallon is a nice home, which I plan on moving everyone back in as soon as the tank is done cycling. The current is adjustable on that filter. Ironically the 10 gallon would have better currents for the ghost fish, who love the current, but I didn't want to overload the biofilter. Since they are schooling fish they need to be all put together. It's just as well, they'd eventually need a bigger tank than a 10 gallon anyway.
I read that dwarf gouramis do ok in smaller tanks from 3-5 gallons 3 being the minimum, but I guess I heard wrong. I wasn't sure if putting a 3 inch fish for a starter fish would be too much for the 10 gallon's biofilter to handle and make things go off again.
I use AquaSafe fluid that supposedly has good bacteria in the mixture as well as chemicals to clear out the clorine and chloramine. I heard about the ammonia lock stuff, but I also heard that if you do this you won't know the proper ammonia reading with the tests. It will still come up as ammonia in the tank, though it has been neutralized with the chemical. If that is true I wouldn't it be more confusing to a beginner to not know the ammonia level or if it is working? Sorry for all the questions. I really appreciate all the advice. I guess I will do a 50% water change today instead of a 25% and maybe use the gourami as my starter cycling fish for the 10 gallon instead of the platy, and I will try to block some of the current with more plastic plants. Thanks everyone!
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Hi Birdo...there is very little if any beneficial bacteria in the water..its mainly in your filter media and decorations as well as some in your gravel..so changing the water wont hurt anything and only help the situation..if all your fish are removed from the 29 gal, you need to put a small piece of raw shrimp, or feed the tank a lil bit of fish food twice a day, to keep the ammonia feeding the tank..also, if all the fish are out, you DO NOT need to do water changes...the water changes are only if you are cycleing with fish...which is NEVER reccomended as its very cruel on fish..but most dont know that because our fish stores tell us to do it..
im not familiar with aquasafe although im sure someone is...most of us use prime as a water conditioner but thats after the tank is cycled...prime is great to lock the ammonia for 24hrs until the next water change when cycleing with fish...
im sticking with the guns that a 3 gal tank isnt big enough for the gourami...its barely big enough for anything fishie like but great for shrimp or a snail...
the only way to safely start a cycle with fish is the DAILY water changes or see if you can get some bio spira or safe start..both of those are beneficial bacteria that you can start a tank with and have fish..goodluck!
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August 1st, 2008
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Fish Bum
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Sorry for the typo Shawnie, I meant in response to your statement about moving the gourami and other fish that I already moved out. I should have said that that was in response to your other statement, not that I moved EVERYONE out of the tank.
The reason I am confused is that tetracare told me that if I do too many water changes I could disrupt the cycle by ridding the tank of beneficial bacteria. I trust you more than them though, because they were the ones trying to sell me stuff not you. They told me about ammo lock but also warned me that I wouldn't know the level of ammonia in the water if I tested. They said though it just turns the ammonia into a more harmless chemical, somehow it still comes up as positive reading in the water tests. So I thought I'd better stay away from that if I can to avoid confusion. But I think you are saying that if you change the water then the readings will be accurate again? I will continue to do 50% water changes until my cycle reaches the proper readings.
With the fish cycling, again it is sad that pet stores sold me fish instead of telling me about the fishless cycle....If I had known it was cruel I certainly wouldn't have used this way in cycling the tank. I just figured they were experts, but really they are just out to sell me stuff...which is just as sad as them selling a 3 gallon tank if it wasn't meant for most fish...I am beginning to believe that the people who design these tanks have their heads up their you know what. I just went by the fact that an inch of fish per gallon unless otherwise stated by my research on a particular breed of fish. It said that DWs are ok in smaller tank sizes from 3-5. I will do further research and check their credentials more throroughly. Again, thanks!
I heard about the BioSpira, the best and most expensive stuff around, but not only can I not afford that right now, I heard mixed results with it, and heard that it is better to do a natural one in the long run. But thanks anyway! I appreciate all the time you have given me in your advice!
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August 1st, 2008
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Fish Master
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goodluck!! and most of us have done a fish cycle as we were told the same thing as you..so dont take it wrong, ALOT of us have been there and will continue to be there as thats what pet stores do...sell stuff and make money....
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August 1st, 2008
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Fish Keeper
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Birdo
BioSpira comes in a packet that will treat 30 or 50 gallons (sorry I can't remember which) and costs only $12. I don't know where in NJ you live, but there is a place in Clementon NJ called the Aquarium Center that carries it.
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August 2nd, 2008
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Fish Bum
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Thanks jdhef! I did a 50% water change today and the readings are 0 ammonia, and still that strange inbetween color of dark blue...so between 0 and .25 for nitrite (I wish it had more levels between those two colors! Nitrate is disapating as well. Its below 5 now. I am guessing that means algae growth, though I can't see the algae yet. What should I do now? Should I change the water again tomorrow with 50%, or should I do a 25%, or nothing at all? I know the nitrite is definitely not 0 and not .25...they seem to be ok though I noticed my molly doing a yawn thing...you know when they hold their mouth open really wide for a second and then she stopped. I wasn't sure if any expert knows about that behavior or if I am just being over protective.
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August 2nd, 2008
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Fish Master
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I would do one more 50% ..nitrites are nawty also ...so until a deffinate 0 for both, id keep up the 50%..you are almost there!~! but you do want some readings in nitrates ...under 20 is good...then you will be totally cycled!
not sure on the molly yawn..maybe someone else might tho 
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August 2nd, 2008
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Fish Bum
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Thanks again Shawnie you are a big help! Since my tap water is naturally at level 10 nitrate, would I be able to know that the tank is cycled by the nitrates reaching 0 and my nitrates shrinking? I don't see any algae but I find it strange that the nitrates are dropping in stead of rising? How many fish can I put in at once a 29 tank cycled? Yay my tank is almost cycled!!!
So far I have 6 fish in there, the pregnant molly a good 2.5 inches and the 5 ghost fish all around or close to 4 inches. The 1 baby molly fry with the bent spine died  . I noticed it swimming around and around in circles the night before. I have increased the salt in my tank to 1 tablespoon per gallon to help my fish's immune system during the rough time cycling.
Last edited by Birdo; August 2nd, 2008 at 01:53 PM.
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August 2nd, 2008
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Moderator
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As far as stocking goes, only add a few at a time so you don't overwhelm your existing bacteria and don't forget to quarantine any new inhabitants.
It looks like you're well on your way. Good luck. 
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August 2nd, 2008
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Fish Keeper
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My tap water has a nitrate level of 10 also. Maybe we're on the same water supply. I never experianced it lowering though.
If you are using the API Master Test Kit, make sure the shake bottle two like crazy and maybe pound it against the palm of your hand or a hard surface. It seems that bottle two contains solids in solution and the solids tend to parcipitae out of the solution and as report by API can lead to a false low reading.
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August 2nd, 2008
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Fish Bum
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So would adding my 3 inch dwarf gourami and 2 platies be too much at once?
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August 2nd, 2008
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Fish Keeper
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Birdo, what an ordeal you're going through! I would add the fish but check closely for variation patterns in ammonia and nitrites, logging readings every 6 hours or so; if parameters hold, keep them in, otherwise leave one and wait to add the others one at a time. Just keep doing daily partial water changes close to 50%.
At this point forget about accuracy in nitrates readings... focus on ammonia and nitrites.
It took me 11 days to cycle (fishless) a 29gal bow tank that eventually I had to overstock (no choice if I wanted that Oscar, the LFS wouldn't hold it for me anymore). After I addded the fish, I had Nitrites readings ranging from 0.24 to 0.48 (0.25 to 0.50) first in 24 hours, then in 36-48 hours, it took me (as I recall it, it's logged but I'm away from home and my PC) almost 3 weeks to cross the mini-cycle (in my case ammonia remained steady at zero).
I went for the allready suggested approach of almost 50% partial water changes (erring on the safe side) daily for the first few days and once I got 0.24 steady through 24 hours, everyother day.
Literature was confusing to me while I was experiencing that distress, I noticed and got confused about the label "safe levels" of nitrites, since the testing literature from the test kits estated .25 or .50 as safe levels. I learned here that the only safe level (ammonia and nitrites) for fish we keep are zero.
All my fish survived, and I know it's likely their inmune system worked hard during those days, but so far they seem to be doing well in their new tank.
Pepe
Santo Domingo
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August 2nd, 2008
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Fish Keeper
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I would think you'd be okay with the DG and 2 Platty's, but like pepetj said, just keep an eye on your water parametere. I have a 36 gallon and my first addition of fish was 3 Boseman's Rainbows which were on average about 3" each and I didn't have any problems.
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