freshwaterguy

Hello - my first post. I would appreciate advice on cycling my first 20 gallon Freshwater Tank.

Fish - x 4 Zebra Danios & x 4 Tiger Barbs / Aquarium Sand / RIO 125 tank - not in direct sunlight / Plastic Plants / Water Temp 78F / pH 7.5

Tetra Test ph kit - using before and after water changes which to date has been a constant PH 7 or 7.5

Tetra Test NO2 nitrite test - I would like some clarification on results from this kit, the reading for Nitrite measured twice a week has always been less than <0.3 mg/l. Should I expect this to increase to higher levels measured in the kit eg 0.8 mg/l, 1.6 mg/l ? during the cycling process.

The Tetra Test NO2 Nitrite test advised to obtain the Nitrite-Nitrogen concentration in mg/l the value of above should be divided by 3.3 is this correct and required ? - do I require another test kit to determine nitrate levels ? as I have read a reading of less than 40 PPM is required.

I understand the decomp of fish waste and uneaten food produces ammonia, ammonia into Nitrite which can be toxic to fish in large enough quantities and Nitrite into Nitrate.

-The fish were all added to the tank on Sunday 5th August and one 10% water change has been done to date on Sunday 12th August another 10% change will be done this coming Sunday.
-They are fed twice a day and the lights are on for 12 hours

Also I have a gravel cleaner which I used during first 10% water change, using this did not appear to lift the fish waste from the 'fine' aquarium sand am I doing something incorrectly as I was quite smooth then aggressive with the gravel cleaner?

Advice on the Nitrite test kit result and how to obtain Nitrate reading and any general advice would be appreciated.


Thanks

Isabella

Hello Freshwater Guy, and welcome to Fish Lore

I have never used Tetra Test Kit so I can't comment on its accuracy or on the proper usage of it. I have always been using Aquarium Pharmaceuticals tests and I can attest that they're very accurate and reliable. From what I've heard and read, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals tests are the best among freshwater tests. A lot of folks on Fish Lore use them. Aquarium Pharmaceutical Test Kit is available online for only around $15. ( http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS...rmastertestkit )Even with S&H fee, you still get it cheaper online than at any normal pet store. This test kit can be as expensive as $30-60 at a local fish store, not kidding.

Now, except for the nitrogen cycle, Ammonia and Nitrite should always be at 0 in a cycled tank. Any presence of Ammonia and/or Nitrite is very toxic to fish. Nitrate, on the other hand, is not as toxic but if its concentration is too high, it will become toxic too. On a label of the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Nitrate test, it says that Nitrate should not exceed 40 ppm to be safe for fish. In my personal opinion, a Nitrate level of 40 ppm is very unhealthy for fish. I personally strive to keep Nitrate in all of my tanks always below 20 ppm. 20 ppm is the maximum level of Nitrate for me. As you already know, we remove Nitrate from our water through regular water changes. Weekly water changes are probably best. The volume of your water changes should depend on the stocking level (and therefore Nitrate level) of your tank. The more fish wastes you have, the higher Nitrate you'll have - which will mean you'll need larger and/or more frequent water changes. Smaller but more frequent water changes are safer for fish than less frequent but large water changes.

So far you have 4 Zebra Danios and 4 Tiger Barbs in your tank, correct? If you've had this tank with fish for more than a month, it's probably cycled by now. If you've had it for less than a month, chances are it's still cycling. Besides, the presence of Nitrite in your water indicates that the tank is cycling. It will be cycled when both Ammonia and Nitrite = 0. Now, when you have any fish in your tank at the same time that you have any Ammonia and/or Nitrite in your water, you should be performing daily water changes until Ammonia and/or Nitrite = 0. This way, you're increasing the chances of your fish not getting sick and dying from Ammonia and/or Nitrite poisoning. The water changes should probably be 50%. As I've said earlier, even smallest amounts of Ammonia and Nitrite in your water can be deadly to fish. You wouldn't have to perform daily 50% water changes if you were cycling fishless.

freshwaterguy

Wow Thanks a lot for your detailed and helpful response very much appreciated, I will increase the frequency of water changes and have today purchase a Nitrate test kit to go along with my Nitrite and PH Tetra test kits.

I added the first fish on 5th August so the tank is still cycling, I was told to do small water changes weekly but reading on the web there are many different opinions, but I will continue to test the water and do regular small water changes.

Isabella

I certainly hope your fish will be OK. Zebra Danios are supposed to be hardy fish. Not sure about Tiger Barbs, but I think they're hardy too (I might be wrong though).

Isabella

I also forgot to add that if you don't have any rooting live plants in your gravel, you should poke the gravel as you vacuum it. Hovering your siphon tube over the gravel won't remove all trapped fish wastes underneath the gravel. If they're left there to decay, they'll keep increasing your Nitrate levels.

freshwaterguy

My tank Cycled 10 days a go and I have since added new fish which you have seen in my other posts, I am so happy I decided to take up the hobby but I think I have the fish bug now - I just keep buying things steadily.

When I move to my next house I will be buying a 200+ litre tank - but for now that will have to wait.

I have enjoyed reading this site and my knowledge has gone from zero to a reasonable amount but I learn something new daily.

Thanks for all your advice Isabella and others.

Isabella

I am glad your tank is cycled and well, and you're welcome