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Old January 15th, 2009  
Moderator
 
Care Sheet For African Dwarf Frogs

African Dwarf Frog Care Guide

ADF's are sensitive to water conditions so please cycle your tank without fish or in this case without your new frog.

African Dwarf Frogs are fully aquatic. They grow to about 1.5" from nose to rear not counting their flippers.
It's not unusual for them to hang out during the day and become more active in the evenings and at night.
They need to breath air so don't be alarmed to see your frogger make a quick dash to the top, take a gulp of air and shoot back down to the bottom.


Your Frog's Home:
They do best in a stable water temperature of 75-80F
You should allow 2.5-3g's of water per frog. I have 2 in a 5g mini bow with the filter setting on low.
Too strong of an intake can suck up their little flippers. Too strong a current may prevent then from getting to the top for air.
Ideally it should be between 12-18" high. Any taller your frog might have trouble getting to the top for air before tiring out.
A lid is a must. They're great escape artists and can squeeze through a tiny space.
Avoid gravel that can fit in their mouth or has sharp edges.
Small smooth river rock works well.
Plastic, silk or live plants will make your tank look nice and give your ADF a place to hide.
A cave is a nice addition, again, make sure it doesn't have sharp edges.
Only use aquarium safe products and make sure any holes are large enough for the frog to swim through.
A stuck frog will drown.

Food:
ADF's are meat eaters. You can feed your frog thawed frozen blood worms or brine shrimp.
Frog and Tadpole pellets are also a good choice.
Avoid Freeze dried foods or hard pellets that can cause blockages.
Feed them once a day or 2 small meals a day. Just enough to see their belly bulge a little.
It won't hurt your adult frog to skip a day but young frogs should be fed everyday.
They're bottom feeders and will root around looking food.

Tank Mates:
I prefer a species only tank. They would be perfectly happy by themselves.
However taking into consideration the tank size they can live with peaceful mid to top dwelling fish.
ADF's are slow to find their food so fast moving or aggressive fish might eat all the food before it gets to your frog.
They're bottom dwellers and will hunt their food, rooting around the substrate. If the fish get to it first your ADF could starve.
If the fish can fit into the frogs mouth it may become food for your ADF.
If the frog can fit into the fish's mouth, it will become food.
I've heard of people being able to keep Otos or ghost shrimp with them.
However remember they do like brine shrimp as snack.
A betta may or may not work. It depends on the Betta's personality and tank size. Always have an alternative plan in case someone needs to be moved.

Behavior:
ADF's are often seen floating with their flippers spread eagle or what looks like they're standing in the water. They're relaxed and it's normally nothing to worry about.
I've actually seen mine hang out like that and slowly to fall over on it's back. Silly frog. He wasn't ill, they just do that sometimes and quickly right themselves.
It's also common for them to hide to feel safe.
In contrast if your frog is always at the top or always hiding, it could be a sign of illness.

Shedding:
They shed about once a week and it's perfectly normal. You may even see skin shaped like a frog in the tank.
It's actually full of nutrients and your frog might eat it.
Click the image to open in full size.
However, if it comes off in tatters or shreds this may be a sign of illness.

Sexing:
It's hard to tell them apart when they're young.
The female is rounder and larger than the male. She has a slightly longer tail (more of a bump)
When the male matures he'll have a small pink or whitish bump under his arms.
Sometimes the males will sing. Much to my disappointment, I've never heard my male sing.
Edit: Since writing this, I have heard my males sing, if that's what you want to call it. lol
It's more of a Zzzzzzt Zzzzzzzt sound.
Click the image to open in full size.

Mating:
When they are ready to mate, the male hugs the female from behind and holds on to her midsection. This is called amplexus. She'll deposit her eggs and he fertilizes them.
If you don't remove the eggs the frogs or tank mates will eat them.

For more on breeding ADF's see Frogbreeders guide.
It's very well written with great illustrations:

ADF Tadpole Development

Medications:
(Thanks Mac)
There are very few medications that are safe for your frog.
Maracyn 1 and Maracyn 2 can be used for bacterial infections.
Maroxy or Benzalkonium Chloride can be used for fungus.
Edit: This may not be a complete list of frog safe meds.
However, please do a lot of research before using any meds with ADF's in your tank.

Quarantine:
It's recommended to quarantine any new frogs for at least 3 months due to the Chytrid Fungus
This fungus effects amphibians, not fish.

Last edited by Lucy; January 30th, 2012 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Edited to add link
Lucy is offline  
Old January 16th, 2009  
Fish Master
 

Wonderful post Lucy! Thanks for writing this up
pinkfloydpuffer is offline  
Old January 16th, 2009  
Fish Keeper
 
thanks for your time and efforts interesting information
Mike19 is offline  
Old January 18th, 2009  
Moderator
 
Thanks! I lovvvvvvvve my frogs. They're so entertaining.
I've been busy and haven't had a chance to add pics yet.
Hopefully sometime this week.
Lucy is offline  
Old January 25th, 2009  
Fish Mentor
 
Great article LUCY! (didnt find it before )

You make me want to get one!
Alessa is offline  
Old January 25th, 2009  
Moderator
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alessa View Post
Great article LUCY! (didnt find it before )
Thanks Alessa!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alessa View Post
You make me want to get one!
Or two? lol
Lucy is offline  
Old January 25th, 2009  
Fish Master
 
Makes me miss Jethro... poor guy only lasted like a week. I'm pretty sure he had that frog fungus...
Maybe some day I'll get another one.
pinkfloydpuffer is offline  
Old May 29th, 2009  
Fish Bum
 
I keep my ADF in a 5 gal with a betta. I currently have gravel, but am planning on switching to pool filter sand. Will my frog be okay with the sand? I feed him frog & tadpole bites. If he has trouble eating in sand, I could place a small dish on top of the sand to hold his food. I just don't want him to choke on sand.
chuckyduck is offline  
Old May 29th, 2009  
Moderator
 
Sand is an option, I'm pretty sure they can pass it easily enough.
The way mine go after food on the bottom, I imagine they would digest quite a bit, so for my personal preference, I don't use it.

A small dish is a good option. I use one.
Lucy is offline  
Old May 29th, 2009  
Fish Bum
 
Maybe I'll use a dish like my gerbil's food bowl. It's small and has high walls to keep the food in and the sand out.
chuckyduck is offline  
Old November 11th, 2009  
Fish Bum
 
how does the food stay in the bowl without floating out in the water?

Last edited by SWfreshmen31; November 11th, 2009 at 09:44 PM.
SWfreshmen31 is offline  
Old November 11th, 2009  
Moderator
 
The frozen blood worms or frog & tadpole bites sink and in my experience stay where it lands.
Lucy is offline  
Old July 12th, 2010  
Fish Bum
 
i have found that they will hide any places the can fit even if they tend to get stuck there they will try to hide there agin. i had a castle in my tank for my adfs to swim in and had to remove it due to the always hiding in the tiny lil places. even if these items have only a hollow bottem the will dig to get under then so i buy items for my tank that dont have tiny place they can get stuck in.
jarrin is offline  
Old July 12th, 2010  
Moderator
 
Great addition jarrin!
Lucy is offline  
Old August 9th, 2010  
Fish Helper
 
Jumpers?

What do I need in addition to my generic aquarium hood to ensure these little guys arn't going to end up on the floor?

My hood has a few openings in the top for filter and heater with about an inch of space not being covered by either. Should I put a net in these cracks?
Rasbo_otto is offline  
Old August 9th, 2010  
Moderator
 
Hi Rasbo_otto, welcome to FishLore

Yes, for sure, put something over even the tiniest openings.
You might get a kick out of this:
Omg, Is that my frog??

Enjoy the forum!
Lucy is offline  
Old August 9th, 2010  
Fish Keeper
 
You should be leaving access to air above your water line when you have frogs to allow them to breath, I lower my water line about 1" below the black strip and I have no fears of escapees. Also I have hoods that cover the majority of my tank surface.
Kupcake is offline  
Old August 9th, 2010  
Moderator
 
Something to keep in mind. They can easily climb the heater and filter cords so any openings should be covered.
Lucy is offline  
Old December 8th, 2010  
Fish Keeper
 
ADFs don't take well to airstones?

I just recently read that ADFs don't take well to airstones/air pumps because of the water vibrations. Is this true?
ZeeZ is offline  
Old December 8th, 2010  
Fish Keeper
 
for wild caught (never seen in stores) yes this was true. in the wild vibrations in the water mean something bigger is swimming by and that is dangerous.


in the home aquarium, these frogs have always been exposed to filtration systems that keep the water moving so the vibrations do not disturb them.

I would suggest however that you keep the water flow directed at a corner so that there is not a swift enough current that they would have to fight to get to the surface to breathe
jenste is offline  
Old January 6th, 2011  
Fish Keeper
 
Thanks Lucy,
That was great to bad I read that too late.
How ever my local fish store was mostly bang on with what you stated.
Also however both my ADF's vanished the tank was checked thuroughly several times.
I assume they made a quick get away 3 months or less in between.
Landozer18 is offline  
Old January 12th, 2011  
Fish Lore Newbie
 
This info was very useful, thank you! I have 2 and one ate his skin and the fliped over onto his back. I would have panicked if I had not read these posts so THANK YOU!!
Tiffany
Breakfastatme is offline  
Old January 13th, 2011  
Moderator
 
Welcome to FishLore!
We're glad you found this helpful.
Some of the stunts they pull can really give us a start. lol

One of mine looked like he was having spasms the other day.
I ran over to the tank and all he was doing was wiggling out of his shed using all four flippers!
Silly thing!

Enjoy the forum!
Lucy is offline  
Old January 23rd, 2011  
Fish Keeper
 
Thanks for all the wonderful info here I just got myself one of these little critters and I love him to pieces already with your help I hope he lives a long long time I am using sand with a dish and will let you know how that works out
shellbell4ever is offline  
Old January 30th, 2012  
Fish Helper
 
Lucy, would you think a sand substrate is okay for these frogs? Their only tankmates are going to be ghost shrimp or nerite snails.

I do have a dish to put the food in. It's a little terra cotta dish from a small flower pot.

Last edited by Nut-meg; January 30th, 2012 at 11:16 AM.
Nut-meg is offline  
Old January 30th, 2012  
Moderator
 
Hi Nut-meg. I've heard pros and cons.
There are members who successfully use sand.
Lucy is offline  
Old January 30th, 2012  
Fish Master
 
I'm using sand in my tank right now, and it seems to be working out. The frogs are good at just grabbing their targets (unless the target is an unsuspecting shrimp. They dart off pretty fast ), and not the sand. Though the sand is a new addition, in the past couple days.

I think it might just depend of the frogs, themselves. I used to have some that would try to eat anything, if it looked at all like it might be food, including gravel and each others flippers, where as, the two I have now are a lot more laid back, and don't go after anything that might be even a little eatable, like the others did.
Akari_32 is online now  
Old January 30th, 2012  
Fish Bum
 
Great Article Lucy ~

In addition to the Meds for ADF's, Lamisil baths can be used also for the Chytrid Fungus. Also if the frog stops eating they can safely be giving Pedialyte Baths to get some nutrients into them and to possibly stimulate their appetite. (Thanks again to Mac)

They are best kept in pristine as possible water conditions with no (0) trace of ammonia, nitrite and low Nitrates.
Jancy is offline  
Old January 30th, 2012  
Moderator
 
Thanks Jancy

Instructions for lamisil baths are included here:
Chytrid Fungus in ADF's and ACF's

I'll add a link to it in the first post.
We can also add the Pedialyte Baths if you know the instructions.
Lucy is offline  
Old January 30th, 2012  
Fish Bum
 
You're Welcome Lucy ~ I hope this is ok to post, please edit if it's not ok.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Pedialyte Bath for Aquatic Frogs

by Mac & JBOT

A Pedialyte bath may help to get nutrients (electrolytes) in aquatic frogs and possibly stimulate their appetite in those not eating well.

Use clear, unflavored Pedialyte (not at full strength!).

Procedure:

In a small frog safe container (e.g. never-seen-soap tupperware), mix 1 capful of Pedialyte with 10 capfuls of fresh, dechlorinated (or dechoraminated) water that is the same temperature as tank water's temerature. Alternatively, tank water can be used. Transfer the froggy to the bath for 1 - 2 hrs but do NOT exceed 2 hours. Floating the bath container in a (heated) tank helps to keep it warm.

Watch closely for any adverse reactions. If they start to "freak out", take them out of the bath. It helps to give them something like live plants (e.g. Java fern) in the bath to hide under, to feel more calm. Do not try to feed, while in the bath.

Additional steps: When a frog has not eaten in a long time, I have had to really coax with frozen but thawed bloodworms repeatedly to get them started again.

Author: Mac & JBOT
Copyright © 2009 Flippers 'n' Fins, Inc. All rights reserved.
Jancy is offline  
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