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November 24th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| Can anyone ID this algae? So, since upgrading the lighting in my 20g brackish tank from 15W to 40, I've started growing some different algae. I used to just have the nasty brown stuff, but now I've noticed that's slowed down a bit (which is very nice  ), but instead I'm starting to see this really bright green algae. I'm sorry I don't have a pic of it, I just cleaned the tank. It seems to grow in little splotches, which makes me think that maybe it's spot algae, but from what research I've done it seems like that stuff is hard, but mine comes off as easily as the brown algae/diatoms did. So, any ideas to what it is? |
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November 24th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| its from the higher wattage on your lights...ive never had green algae in my angel tank but when I started leaving the lights on 24/7 so they wouldnt eat their fry, I had it everywhere... |
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November 24th, 2008
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| | Moderator
| I agree with Shawnie. I had noticed that when one of my betta tanks was sitting in partial sunlight during the day, it was that area that developed that bright green algae. |
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November 24th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| So... is it just called green algae then? |
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November 24th, 2008
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| | Fish Keeper
| Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkfloydpuffer So... is it just called green algae then? | Without a picture, it's impossible to say.
Does it look like this? If so, it's green spot algae like you'd originally suspected. |
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November 24th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| Yeah, kinda... like the larger patches there. There aren't really any tiny spots though. |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| It's came back, so I got some pictures. I hope someone can tell what it is from the pics. |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Moderator
| Hi PFP
I found this link very useful.. with color photos, ID'ing the algae, why the algae and the different types of algae eaters. I think its a very helpful link to save. http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9 |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| Oh goodness, do you think it's cyanobacteria? That would not be good at all |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Moderator
| That could be cyanobacteria.
Does it come off easily? Cyanobacteria clings very loosely and drapes over stuff as it grows. Other algaes usually cling pretty tightly.
The good news is that, if it is cyanobacteria, you're catching it early enough that your fish likely won't suffer at all. |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| Yeah... it comes off as easily as the diatoms did.
What do I need to do to get rid of it? |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Moderator
| Blue-green, slime or smear algae:
Grows rapidly in blue-green, slimy sheets. Spreads rapidly over almost everything and usually indicates poor water quality. However, blue-green algae can fix nitrogen and may be seen in aquariums with extremely low nitrates. Sometimes seen in small quantities between the substrate and aquarium sides. Will smother and kill plants. This is actually cyanobacteria. It can be physically removed, but this is not a viable long term solution as the aquarium conditions are still favorable for it and it will return quickly. Treatment with 200 mg of erythromycin phosphate per 10 gallons of water will usually eliminate blue-green algae but some experts feel it may also have adverse effects on the biological filter bed. If erythromycin is used for treatment, ammonia and nitrite levels should be carefully monitored.
Hi PFP
I took this info from the link I added to your thread above...  |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| Well, my aquarium has had low nitrates since the beginning... actually all of mine do. Never over 10ppm.
It's on the substrate, on my plants, all over the glass, on my decor... just everywhere.
Erythromycin phosphate, huh?... I have no idea where to find that, lol. I'll have to be careful about the cycle... it's in my puffer tank.
Thanks for bearing with me Kate, I'm a bit frazzled.... not the best day so far...  |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Moderator
| When I had it in one of my betta tanks, I did not use anything. Just kept scrubbing it off all the time, did major cleaning which thru me into a mini cycle, but I wanted to get rid of it. I also found that it was in the tank that was near the sunny window. I kept the blinds closed after that while the sun was shining in. Not sure if that had anything to do with it, but the other two betta tanks didnt have it, and they were not in direct sunlight.
Its been gone for about a year now... thank goodness. It is a mess for sure.  Good luck with your clean up!  |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| Thanks... mine are all in my bedroom in the basement... and this one is furthest from the window that I never open... so I don't think that's the problem. I suppose I'll do the big waterchanges and cleanings, and keep an eye out for the erythromycin. It's funny... I think I've had a prescription for erythromycin myself before...
Would CO2 for my plants help at all? I'm getting Excel next week... |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Moderator
| Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkfloydpuffer Thanks... mine are all in my bedroom in the basement... and this one is furthest from the window that I never open... so I don't think that's the problem. I suppose I'll do the big waterchanges and cleanings, and keep an eye out for the erythromycin. It's funny... I think I've had a prescription for erythromycin myself before...
Would CO2 for my plants help at all? I'm getting Excel next week... | Gee.. I dont know that much about fert for plants as I have low lighted easy ones in my tanks.
I do know that API sells erythromycin as a medication. Wonder if that is what they mean?  I always thought that too much phosphate caused algae? |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| Yeah, I thought so too... 
I'm just clueless, lol |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Keeper
| Quote:
Originally Posted by capekate I do know that API sells erythromycin as a medication. Wonder if that is what they mean?  I always thought that too much phosphate caused algae? | Erythromycin is the active ingredient in Maracyn, which is readily available at most reputable fish stores. It can have an adverse affect on your cycle, though, so use caution if you go that route.
And excess phosphates can be a cause of algae, but cyanobacteria isn't truly an algae... on the other hand, sirdarksol's article on cyanobacteria indicates that excess phosphates could be a cause. I haven't seen it listed as a cause in any other algae-related articles, but that doesn't mean it's not.
I posted the following quotes elsewhere in the forum, but they also fit in this thread. Quote: Description
This isn't a true algae, but a bacteria called cyanobacteria that is able to photosynthesise. Covers everything in a blue/green slimy mat. Easily peels off but grows back again very quickly. It can smell pretty foul. It is very commonly found in the substrate and especially along the front glass where is receives light. Cause
Often caused by very low nitrates. It is fairly common to have it growing in the substrate against the front glass from where it can spread. Sometimes it appears with new setups that have had light and ammonia present at some point. Dirty substrates and filters may also bring it on. Bad water circulation is another possible cause. Removal
A blackout is the best method for this. Clean out as much of the algae as you can and do a 30 to 50% water change. If your nitrates are low then add some potassium nitrate to get levels to 20ppm. Remove CO2 and add an airstone. Turn off lights and cover the whole tank so no light can enter. Leave it for 3 to 4 days. No peeking and no feeding - fish will be fine without food for this period. After 3 to 4 days remove the covers and do a 30 - 50% water change. Remove airstone and start CO2. You will need to dose nitrates to keep them dropping too low again. Make sure your substrate and filter doesn't become too clogged up with mulm and also make sure you have good water circulation around the whole tank.
Another option is to treat with Maracyn which is an anti-biotic. Seems to work well but may affect the biological filter.
If the BGA is originating from the substrate place some dark tape on the glass to hide the substrate from direct light. | Quote:
While often referred to by aquarists as an algae, Blue Green Algae (BGA) is in fact a bacterial slime that can easily coat everything in your tank. Appearing as either a green, black, or purple coating, BGA is perhaps best known for the unique earthy smell that it has when pulled from the tank. As a nitrogen-fixing bacteria, it will fully deplete your water column of any available nitrogen. Causes:- Low nitrates - Usually present when all of the nitrogen/nitrate has been removed from the water column. While this is a triggering condition, it is also exacerbated by the bacteria itself using any remaining nitrogen.
- High organics - Overfeeding, or excess organic matter in the tank can trigger BGA.
- Old light bulbs - Sometimes present when light bulbs are no longer emitting usable light. This may be more of a matter of your plants no longer being able to out-compete the bacteria.
- Poor water circulation - Circulation is key in a planted aquarium so that no “dead spots” are present where nutrients have been used up locally, but fresh ones are not being recirculated throughout.
Cures:- Increase nitrates - Dose nitrates until the concentration reaches ~5ppm.
- Add fast growing plants - this helps to out-compete the algae for resources.
- Blackout - BGA cannot survive without light.
- Excel/H202 treatment - Use a syringe to spot treat problem areas. Then manually remove dead patches.
- Erythromycin - use antibiotics at half dosage to kill the bacteria. Mardel Labs’ Maracyn contains erythromycin and has been used effectively without harming most plants.
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| Wow, thanks.
Where can I find nitrates to does my aquarium? I'm thinking that's the most likely cause, because mine are always so low.
Would my plants (java moss, java fern, anacharis) survive a blackout?
My tank is brackish if that matters...
I haven't tested my water for phosphates... is there a strip or liquid test for that? |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Keeper
| Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkfloydpuffer Where can I find nitrates to does my aquarium? | Seachem offers Flourish Nitrogen if you want a liquid solution, or you could look into dry-dosing with potassium nitrate (KNO3), such as what is found here. Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkfloydpuffer Would my plants (java moss, java fern, anacharis) survive a blackout?
My tank is brackish if that matters... | Unless the tank being brackish has some impact on plant lighting requirements I'm not aware of (which is always possible!), yes, the plants will survive for a few days with no light. They might look a little worse-for-wear afterwards, but they shouldn't die. Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkfloydpuffer I haven't tested my water for phosphates... is there a strip or liquid test for that? | API has a liquid test kit, which I assume is on par with their other test kits. |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| Ok great. Thanks for the help. I'll go to the store and see if I can find any of that stuff there. Thanks  |
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December 5th, 2008
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| | Fish Master
| I went to the stores near me... nothing. So I guess I'll be doing a blackout.
I'll miss my puffy babies  |
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December 11th, 2008
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| | Fish Helper
| i know its not a true algae but i think BlueGreenAlgae (which is definatelly what you have) is by far the hardest stuff out of all the algaes to pinpoint a cause. i have been battling this stuff for months and have done lots of research. there are so many possible factors that can contribute to outbreaks of this stuff.
i have tried all the basic cures you read on every fish website with absolutelly no effect.
if you dont have live plants an effective way to get rid of it is to black out your tank for 3-5 days. meaning cover it so no light at all gets in the tank. 3 days is usually not enough. i did 3 days and enough survived to seed a new outbreak. i highly recomend you religiously keep up on this stuff and manually clean as much as you can, especially before a blackout if you choose to.
other possible causes are your particular light spectrum. it seems to prefer low spectrum light in the 5500 range. this spectrum is similar to the natural light present at the time of year natural outbreaks occur. also another interesting possibility for its cause is water flow. its been documented that areas of weak water flow seem to be pooling areas for this bacteria although iv'e seen it in very high areas of water flow.
i recently came across an interesting post on another forum and the poster mentioned he would only ever get outbreaks when his filter flow ran down the front of the glass and stirred up his substrate. interestingly enough the area of my tank that has it the worse is directly where my HOB filter flows down the front of my glass and stirs up my soil. and iv'e heard soil type might play some small part. where my filter dumps out it stirs up my Amazonia Aqua Soil which iv'e heard can contain and release ammonia when disturbed.
it seems also that length of photoperiod might play some part as well.
if it is in fact low nitrogen (i never was able to cure thiis stuff by raising nitrates alone) its possible that just raising nitrates might not be good enough. you might have to cautiously maintain nitrates at a specific PPM (30ish would be ideal) and not let it fluctuate very far from 30ppm. fluctuating nitrogen levels might be useless if in fact nitrogen would help at all.
i am currently in the process of doing three things to help cure it once and for all. first i am replacing my 5500 k bulbs with 6700k bulbs. already replaced one...second one will have been by this weekend. secondly i changed the direction of my filter flow so it no longer stirs up the bottom at all. also i redirected my powerhead so it only stirs up the mid level of the aquarium....not the bottom at all. thirdly i am using dry fertilizer NO3 (nitrogen) and from today onward will monitor and maintain 30ppm NO3. all of this i am doing after a recent blackout that killed 90% of the BGA that was in my tank.
i will try and update my progress as i time goes along. Last edited by ER9; December 11th, 2008 at 10:37 PM.
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