All right got rid of Greenwater now have

hop2jr · November 23rd, 2008

Well finally got rid of my Greenwater and have blue/green on my sand, greenhair on my plants and blackhair on my Vals don't get it starve one and get 2 more my nitrates are 5 which is good for the tank and the algea.So what do I need to do now use seachem Florish and exel for the plants what can I do about the BG on the sand the fish eat the other stuff but not that?

zeebo · November 27th, 2008

Hi hop2jr,

I suggest you stop adding Florish & Excel.
The algae is feeding and blooming becoz of them.
I had the same experience. After I stop adding plant food, I no longer get Black Brush Algae and hair algae.

If your tank can accommodate another fish, get a Real Siamese Flying Fox or a False Siamese Flying Fox. They will eat the algae that other fishes don't eat.
I have both the Real and False Siamese Flying Fox so I know they have helped to control the algae in my tank.

Good luck.

mathas · November 27th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by hop2jr

what can I do about the BG on the sand the fish eat the other stuff but not that?

"Blue-green algae" isn't really an algae at all, which is why fish that normally consume algae leave it alone.

Here are quotes from two great algae guides regarding cyanobacteria and how to deal with it:

Quote:

Description
This isn't a true algae, but a bacteria called cyanobacteria that is able to photosynthesise. Covers everything in a blue/green slimy mat. Easily peels off but grows back again very quickly. It can smell pretty foul. It is very commonly found in the substrate and especially along the front glass where is receives light.

Cause
Often caused by very low nitrates. It is fairly common to have it growing in the substrate against the front glass from where it can spread. Sometimes it appears with new setups that have had light and ammonia present at some point. Dirty substrates and filters may also bring it on. Bad water circulation is another possible cause.

Removal
A blackout is the best method for this. Clean out as much of the algae as you can and do a 30 to 50% water change. If your nitrates are low then add some potassium nitrate to get levels to 20ppm. Remove CO2 and add an airstone. Turn off lights and cover the whole tank so no light can enter. Leave it for 3 to 4 days. No peeking and no feeding - fish will be fine without food for this period. After 3 to 4 days remove the covers and do a 30 - 50% water change. Remove airstone and start CO2. You will need to dose nitrates to keep them dropping too low again. Make sure your substrate and filter doesn't become too clogged up with mulm and also make sure you have good water circulation around the whole tank.
Another option is to treat with Maracyn which is an anti-biotic. Seems to work well but may affect the biological filter.
If the BGA is originating from the substrate place some dark tape on the glass to hide the substrate from direct light.

http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

Quote:

While often referred to by aquarists as an algae, Blue Green Algae (BGA) is in fact a bacterial slime that can easily coat everything in your tank. Appearing as either a green, black, or purple coating, BGA is perhaps best known for the unique earthy smell that it has when pulled from the tank. As a nitrogen-fixing bacteria, it will fully deplete your water column of any available nitrogen.

Causes:

Low nitrates - Usually present when all of the nitrogen/nitrate has been removed from the water column. While this is a triggering condition, it is also exacerbated by the bacteria itself using any remaining nitrogen.
High organics - Overfeeding, or excess organic matter in the tank can trigger BGA.
Old light bulbs - Sometimes present when light bulbs are no longer emitting usable light. This may be more of a matter of your plants no longer being able to out-compete the bacteria.
Poor water circulation - Circulation is key in a planted aquarium so that no “dead spots” are present where nutrients have been used up locally, but fresh ones are not being recirculated throughout.

Cures:

Increase nitrates - Dose nitrates until the concentration reaches ~5ppm.
Add fast growing plants - this helps to out-compete the algae for resources.
Blackout - BGA cannot survive without light.
Excel/H202 treatment - Use a syringe to spot treat problem areas. Then manually remove dead patches.
Erythromycin - use antibiotics at half dosage to kill the bacteria. Mardel Labs’ Maracyn contains erythromycin and has been used effectively without harming most plants.

http://www.gwapa.org/articles/algae/#bga

hop2jr · February 19th, 2009

do you think adding a UV sterlizer would help cure this BG problem?

ER9 · March 6th, 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by hop2jr

do you think adding a UV sterlizer would help cure this BG problem?

no...it could be alot of reasons you have it. i would definately keep that tank clean. make sure you do regular water changes and keep your filters clean, make sure they are not plugged up/dirty. check them weekly. it seems the big culprit is disolved organics witht his stuff.

BBA algae is from low co2. the flourish excel will help so keep adding it. if you dont have shrimp you can double the dosages. it should help but you have to maintain and add it regularly. aquariums are sensative to change and almost always respond to it negatively. if you start adding something like ferts or excel....you need to be regular and consistant...also patient. it may take weeks to notice results.

theres a product called blue green algae killer that will kill cyano fairly quickly. available on the net. works very well. and dont stop adding ferts. thats not a good idea if you have live plants. you do however need to research and find a good, comprehensive fertilizer mix and start adding it regularly. lack of nutrients will often be a cause of algae. over fertilizing does not cause algae outbreaks. algae can thrive with nutrient levels so low in a tank we cant even measure their amounts. by starving plants of nutrients you are effectively eliminating the algaes competitin and giving it the advantage. theres tons of great info out there. check out these two web sites...they will answer all your questions.

http://www.plantedtank.net/

http://www.barrreport.com/

also i didnt notice which tank in your profile has the outbreak but that 75gal has very low light. research low light tanks and plants. you will have a hard time growing alot of plants in that tank unless you upgrade the lighting a bit. if you have demanding higher light plants in there now that might be part of your problem.

hop2jr · March 7th, 2009

I have 3x32watt 4' florcents and am only runnig 2 right now when I run 3 got GW shut it down and got rid of that now afraid to turn it back on.

cerianthus · March 7th, 2009

By any chance, these bulbs were purchased at home Depot or other than LFS?

hop2jr · March 10th, 2009

ya got it at Walmart 2x32watts with stainless steel body got it for 20 bucks beats 90 at the lfs and used 6500k daylite lamps, mounted it to the top of the conapy about 4" above the glass. Didn't think the fixer mattered just the k temp of the lamps.

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